Lazy travel: Sabah, Borneo

One Week Layover in Kota Kinabalu

A one-week layover in Kota Kinabalu—or KK, as the locals and backpackers call it. Capital of Sabah, the second-largest state in Malaysia, nestled on the island of Borneo and famed for its rich natural diversity.

Sabah boasts Malaysia’s highest peak, a UNESCO-listed tropical jungle, pristine beaches, world-class dive sites, and orangutans in the wild.

Amazing!

Who wouldn’t want a week-long layover in what sounds like an ecological paradise? You’d be completely mad not to seize the opportunity to explore the riches of Sabah.
And yet—there I was, comfortably curled up in my hostel dorm, with zero activities planned.

So what happened?

Sabah does have some genuine gems—but like most treasures, they’re highly protected. That means that in order to explore the majority of them, you’ll need to book packaged tours.

That’s right—forget the dreamy National Geographic fantasy of you and a local guide machete-ing your way through lush, steamy rainforest. In reality, unless you’ve paid big bucks to have a private experience, you’ll walk over clearly marked paths… with lots of other tourists.

Want to climb Mount Kinabalu, Malaysia’s tallest mountain? You’ll need to book your overnight expedition months in advance—and it’ll set you back around €270. Keep in mind this was in 2013.

Or maybe you’re envisioning a peaceful canoe safari through jungle rivers? Don’t be surprised when your guide refuses to stop for a monkey posing on the riverbank because it’s already 6:05 PM—and your tour officially ends at 6. (True story, shared by several travellers I met.)

You’re obviously not the only one taking these tours. Expect hordes of (mostly Chinese) tourists, island-hopping with you and leaving trash behind on what are no longer deserted beaches.

As for seeing orangutans swinging freely through the treetops? You’ll likely be pointed to a rehabilitation centre, where you’ll spend seven hours getting there, only to fight for space on an overcrowded viewing platform. Again, things are different when you really cash out to have an exclusive private experience in remote places of the island.

Don’t get me wrong—it is possible to experience Borneo more authentically, without tours. But doing so will require time, effort, and a decent budget.

So, back to the question: what happened?

I simply wasn’t in the mood for extensive travel, nor was I feeling the whole Disneyland-style outing—even though many of the attractions are truly unique. I decided to skip the “mandatory” tourist trail.

Instead, I spent most of my time in Kota Kinabalu working from the hostel, getting massages, eating like a queen, and socializing with fellow travelers and the hostel crew.

After a while, though, I started feeling a bit of that familiar traveller’s guilt—thinking:
“I really ought to visit something… anything!”

So I took three short trips from KK—and as it turns out, you can absolutely “fake” the tourist trail by going on day trips. Even though I was in full-on lazy traveler mode, I still managed to see most of Sabah’s highlights.

One trip (actually an overnight) took me to Kinabalu National Park.
I didn’t climb Mount Kinabalu, but I did hike some sloping hills around it and scored some epic views. I solo hiked a few kilometers through the rainforest—lush, quiet, and green.

Another outing was just a 15-minute boat ride off KK’s coast, where I landed on truly unspoiled beaches—yes, they exist—no trash, no crowds, just turquoise water and palm trees.

My last trip was to Rasa Ria, a five-star resort that has its own private nature reserve. Just a 45-minute taxi ride from KK, it gave me the chance to get up close and personal with our orangutan cousins. The resort’s rehabilitation centre works closely with the more famous Sepilok Nature Reserve. Sure, there are fewer orangutans here—but also fewer tourists. And the monkeys play much closer to the viewing platform. Win-win.

The only activity missing from my lazy travel itinerary? Diving.
Sipadan, the underwater paradise everyone raves about, requires an extra flight, a long bus ride, and a whole lot of cash (at least €500). It’s probably worth it… but unfortunately I didn’t have the budget.
I still got to see plenty of fish—on my plate.

I spoke with many fellow travellers in Sabah, and they all confirmed what I’d been feeling: visiting this part of Borneo doesn’t translate to a rugged, raw, authentic adventure—unless you have plenty of time and resources.

Sabah is a great destination if you want to comfortably experience the highlights of Borneo without the hassle of permits, planning, or long treks. But if you’ve got the time, I’d recommend combining Sabah with Sarawak, the other Malaysian state on the island.

And if it’s a truly untouched cultural and natural Bornean experience you’re after?
Head to Kalimantan, the Indonesian part of Borneo.

Have you ever skipped the main tourist attractions because you just didn’t feel like it?

The post “Lazy travel: Sabah, Borneo” first appeared on Travel Cake.