Thingyan, Water festival in Myanmar

Who doesn’t love a smashing New Year’s party? Now imagine that bash lasting for days, taking place outdoors under a blazing sun, and involving obscene amounts of water.

Welcome to Thingyan — Myanmar’s water festival, held around mid-April to ring in the Burmese New Year. It’s the country’s biggest and most important holiday, and it’s absolutely bonkers (in the best way). Similar waterfestivals are celebrated in the neighbouring buddhist countries Thailand, Laos (Songkran) and Cambodia (Chaul Chnam Thmey).

We were lucky enough to be in Myanmar just in time. Locals insisted Yangon was the place to be. So, a few days before the madness kicked off, we headed to the capital — because once Thingyan starts, public transport basically stops.

At the time, I thought: “A water festival? Sounds cute.”
I was so wrong.

It began in the taxi. The driver had wrapped his entire car — seats, dashboard, the whole deal — in plastic.

 

I turned to ask him, “Why is your car completely covered in pla—”

SPLASH!

A gleeful guy by the side of the road had just hurled a full bucket of ice water through the open window, over my head. I sat, stunned and dripping, as the taxi driver howled with laughter.

“Happy happy?” he asked, eyes twinkling.
“Yeah… happy,” I sputtered.

And just like that, we were in it.

So, what exactly is Thingyan?
It’s a multi-day water fight with soul. People splash water on each other to wash away sins, bad luck, and evil deeds from the past year. The symbolism is beautiful — but in practice, it’s complete, joyous chaos.

You cannot walk one block dry. Not possible. Water is everywhere. And while the main square with its traditional dance shows and hose stations is lovely, the real party — the pure, pulsing heart of Thingyan — is Kandawgyi Lake.

That’s where Yangon’s youth gathers. It’s loud, it’s wild, it’s a full-on music festival meets water park. Temporary “spraying stations” line the streets, doubling as dance stages. Pop and electro music blast from the speakers while people — soaked to the bone — sing, dance, and drench strangers with wild abandon.

Everywhere you turn, people are smiling, dancing, and asking, “Happy happy?”
You grin back: “Happy happy!”

Everyone’s carrying a bucket, bottle, bowl, or hose. Fire hoses, even. At one point I got sprayed with what I swear was a power washer. When you’re not standing under what I would describe as the world’s largest shower, someone empties their container over you and simultaneously wishes you a ‘Happy New Year’.

But it’s for a good cause: the festival is held to wash away evil deeds, bad luck and sins from the past year before entering the new. Many of the adolescents take advantage of the more or less ‘free pass’ to commit some last minute “sins”. Drinking in public, walking hand in hand with their crushes, dressing and dancing provocatively…

Black Culture, organiser of one of the spraying stations, invited us to party on their dance floor. The DJ played some good beats and we mingled with the teenagers, hosing down passers-by. It reminded me of the City Parade of Brussels, plus shower.

 

The enthusiasm, excitement and happiness of the people were mind blowing. But then again, not really… This is the only time a year where the Burmese government permits crowds to gather in public areas. It’s the only time where colour, rank and status have little or no significance. Everyone is included; kids, grand-parents, business men in suits, tourists, bus drivers…

The Burmese usually come across as soft-spoken, shy people, however, during Thingyan, they change into an outgoing crowd. Seeing this metamorphosis -maybe partly due to their alcohol consumption- is one of the things I enjoyed most about the water festival.

 

The festival lasts 3 to 5 days and the parties are mainly during day light. After sunset the participants return home and get a good night’s rest to resume the festivities the following day.

 

TIPS to enjoy Thingyan to the fullest

Go all in. Dance, play, shout “happy happy!” until your voice cracks. Go just as nuts as they do!
If you stay on the sidelines, you’ll miss the magic. Get in there, allow people to talk to you. 

Those wanting to take a break from the madness or wish to take it easy, there are funfairs and (wet) food stands around the premises.

Waterproof your tech. Your camera, phone, and dignity are all at risk. Prioritize wisely.

Don’t trust enclosed spaces. Even inside a train or bus, someone will find a way to hose you.

Plan ahead. Transport grinds to a halt during the festival, so get where you need to be before the first splash.

Don’t resist it. Resistance is not only futile — it’s also kind of rude. The whole point is to let go, get drenched, and start fresh.

Thingyan is absolute, beautiful mayhem. It’s one of the most joyful, unifying experiences I’ve ever had — a giant, soaking-wet game awakening your inner child.

Happy happy!

Celebrate Thingyan in 2014 from Sunday April 13th to Wednesday April 16th.

 

Have you heard of Thingyan? Would you enjoy such a festival?

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