What’s in Sulawesi?

Maybe I should start by answering the question: “Where is Sulawesi?”
Among the 6,000 inhabited islands of Indonesia lies Sulawesi, one of the country’s largest. When I told my friends we were off to explore Sulawesi, they all gave me the same puzzled reaction: “Oh, how lovely… What’s in Sulawesi?”
To be honest, I wasn’t entirely sure myself. I had read a few things here and there, but it remained a big question mark.

So here’s what I found on the island of Sulawesi:

 

1. Jaw-dropping landscapes

Mist rolling over hills and valleys, narrow roads cutting through endless rice fields, rugged cliffs, lush jungles, volcanoes, beaches… A variety of landscapes perfect for hikes and motorbike rides.

 

2. Tana Toraja- remarkable culture and architecture

This is the land of the Torajan people. Immerse yourself in their fascinating traditions and beliefs in the southern half of the island.
I know the word “unique” is often overused to describe just about anything, but if there’s ever a case where it truly fits, it’s here. I found their “death-centric” way of life particularly intriguing.

 

3. Gorgeous deserted islands

Take the Togean Islands, for example. Getting there is a journey—two days of driving and sailing, non-stop—but totally worth it. No phone signal, no internet. A perfect digital detox, or just a relaxing few days of beach, snorkel, eat, sleep, repeat.

 

4. A dark side

As mentioned earlier, death is ever-present in southern Sulawesi—not in a creepy or dangerous way, but as a celebrated part of life. Every now and then you stumble upon centuries-old bones and coffins. Bodies are buried in caves and cliff walls; skeletons are given cigarettes and money.
At times, it felt like being on the set of a gothic music video.

 

5. Top notch underwater scenery

Prepare to redefine your perception of colour… Sulawesi offers some of the most vibrant coral and marine life I’ve ever seen. Despite past dynamite fishing, much of the coral remains intact. The fish patterns and their colour schemes inspired me to imagine an entirely new wardrobe—shame I’m not a fashion designer!
If you’re an experienced diver and looking for something different, check out the Lembeh Strait for world-class muck diving. Snorkel in Bunaken, muck dive in Lembeh, and dive around the Togeans.

 

6. Tarsiers

If you ask me, they’re the cutest primates on the planet. Sulawesi is home to tarsiers in two of its national parks. We tracked them down with a guide at dawn in Tangkoko National Park. My nine-year-old self gave me a big high five—childhood dreams do come true!

 

7. A new cuisine to try out

Sulawesi’s cuisine has its own character. Sure, there’s your usual mie goreng and nasi campur, but a host of traditional dishes await. Vegetarians and vegans, beware: most meals are heavy on meat and fish, so options may be limited (though the rice is excellent). I tried pa’piong, a Torajan specialty: meat or fish with vegetables and traditional black spice, slow-cooked in bamboo over open fire. Strong, distinct flavours!

 

8. Jellyfish lake

On the Togean Islands, there’s a lake full of colourful, stingless jellyfish. You can swim and snorkel among them. Only three lakes in the world offer this experience! With no predators in the lake, over the centuries the jellyfish lost their sting and became completely harmless. It’s a magical experience. I quote my dear husband: “It’s like swimming in a lake full of boobs.”

 

9. A Buffalo and Pig market

Yes, this is an actual attraction—and a memorable one at that. The smells, the sounds, the chaos… I could barely process it all, while everyone else seemed completely at ease.
I find it enriching to challenge my views of what’s considered “normal”—especially when it comes to attitudes toward animals. Again, maybe not the best idea for vegetarians/vegans.

 

10. Beautiful national parks, home to endangered species: crested black macaque

Sulawesi’s national parks are full of incredible flora and fauna. One of them is home to the critically endangered crested black macaque. I had no idea how dire the situation was—these apes are even closer to extinction than tigers, orangutans or rhinos.

 

11. Fantastic coffee

The plantations in the Torajan highlands grow a coffee bean that’s internationally distributed as gourmet coffee. Premium beans are hard to find elsewhere in Indonesia, since most are exported. But we managed to find some at Café Aras in Rantepao. WOW!
If you can’t make it to Sulawesi, see if you can find Torajan coffee in your own country—totally worth it.

 

Things to keep in mind

Sulawesi is not the cheapest destination. Transportation is either extremely uncomfortable or pricey. Meals tend to cost a bit more than in Java or Bali. If you’re diving (which I highly recommend), keep in mind most dives cost around $30 USD each – at the time of writing.
Accommodation on smaller islands starts at $20 USD per person—not per room—and usually includes three meals.

Travel in Sulawesi also means lots of waiting. Slow travel is key if you want to truly see the island. Attractions are scattered, so expect some “dead days” between sites—either spent traveling or waiting for transport. Take your time, or consider flying. There are six airports on the island, with Makassar (south) and Manado (north) being the main ones.

What I wish I’d brought:
A frisbee or ball, a bottle of quality rum for cocktails (which are non-existent in the Togeans and expensive in Bunaken), more reading material (one novel wasn’t enough!), and some good snacks from the mainland. I got tired of eating cookies from the only shop on the island.

 

Have you heard of Sulawesi as a tourist destination? Would you consider going?

The post “What’s in Sulawesi” first appeared on Travel Cake.