Up close and personal with the Albanian Mountains in Valbona

Valbona: A Hidden Gem in the Albanian Alps

The journey began in pitch darkness, on the side of a dirt road in northern Albania. I wasn’t alone—I had teamed up with a fellow traveller I’d met at a hostel. Our guesthouse owner in Shkoder had assured us that a bus would swing by to pick us up and drop us near the ferry docks.
“Just stand by the side of the road around 6 AM,” he said the night before. “It’ll pass by.”
So there we stood—no bus stop, no people, just two hopeful souls watching the stars fade into morning.
Just as we were about to give up, headlights appeared in the distance. The bus, 20 minutes late, had arrived

A few hours of zigzagging mountain roads followed, broken up by coffee and rakija stops—yes, hard liquor at 7 in the morning. Apparently that’s just how it’s done in Albania. Local passengers were deep in heated debates about Serbia (or so I gathered—my Albanian is still very much a work in progress).

Eventually we reached Fierze, where we boarded a small boat to cross the majestic Lake Koman—described by the Bradt guide as “one of the great boat trips of the world.” Even under gloomy skies, I couldn’t argue with that.

The final leg of the journey was a short ride with five other travellers, winding deeper into the valley until we reached Valbona, a remote mountain village cradled in the Albanian Alps. I’d heard it was beautiful, but I wasn’t prepared to be completely swept off my feet. It was defintely worth traveling 8 hours to get here.

After checking into my guesthouse, I took a brisk walk through golden fall foliage. The air was crisp, the landscape serene, the town tiny—just a handful of scattered houses. I was smitten.

The days that followed were all about fresh air and immersion in nature.

Valbona offers plenty of hiking options—from multi-day mountain treks to breezy one-hour walks. With limited time, I opted for a three-hour hike (one-way) that quickly became unforgettable.
I wandered alone through flower-dotted meadows, past cows grazing freely. Picking sweet wild grapes along the way. With every step higher into the hills, I found myself grinning and shaking my head: Is this even real?

Eventually I reached a remote farmhouse where a local family was tending to their daily chores—cooking, chopping wood, making cheese, caring for animals. They invited me in for tea, and soon I was sitting down to share a meal being prepared by the kind-hearted hostess. She even gave me a little tour and a crash course in cheese-making—with fresh milk of course.

Later, an American family happened to stop by and joined the fun. We roasted chestnuts, swapped stories, and enjoyed a family-style dinner that none of us were expecting.

Evenings in Valbona were cozy and communal—home-cooked meals, wine by the crackling fire, and laughter echoing through the wooden chalet. It was simple, soulful, and everything you’d want from a mountain retreat.

Spending a few days in Valbona was a definite highlight of my trip to Albania. If you’re ever in the region, I highly recommend making the long but scenic journey. It’s well worth the effort.

I stayed at Rilindja Alpine Rooms , where rates start at €20 for a single room or €30 for a double. They also offer deluxe rooms and dorms, depending on your travel style and budget. For detailed info on the region, hikes, accommodation, and local tips, the Journey to Valbona website is a goldmine of practical advice.

What about you, do you enjoy hiking?

The post “Up close and personal with the Albanian mountains in Valbona” first appeared on Travel Cake.