Blog

This was not how I pictured my first visit to Australia.

Having spent most my life in Europe, Africa and the Middle East, Australia always sounded like a such an exotic, far flung place. It almost seemed an unattainable travel goal, one I would need quite a lot of time and resources for. Adding that to the fact that I’ve never been particularly drawn to the country as a travel destination, I didn’t think my feet would ever touch Australian soil. And I was OK with that.

When I moved to Bali; however, it really sunk in how nearby Australia is and how cheap the flights can be. Suddenly, the destination that once seemed so out of reach, was accessible in quick 3 hour flight! Technically, I could jet off to Australia for a long weekend, spending just €100 on a return flight!

Fast forward 3 years, my best friend announces she left everything behind in Belgium and is settling in Perth. There was only one thing I could do:

Book. The. Ticket.

Meeting up with my bestie in a destination I never thought I would reach: this could only be epic! A quick search led me to an elaborate list of places around West Australia I absolutely wanted to visit. I could already see myself snorkelling the reefs, wine tasting in the vineyards of Margret River, cycling around Rottnest Island, having random kangaroo encounters and exploring prehistoric caves clad with Aboriginal art… So there I was, floating on my little cloud when an important thought brutally brought me back to reality… I was going to be traveling with my 1 year old daughter!

More so, I was about to embark on a single parent travel adventure…

DAMN IT!

I mean, baby’s can’t snorkel! Nor is there space for a kid’s seat on a mountain bike! I can’t possibly detect subtle hints of nutmeg in a silky red, while keeping a toddler from brushing her teeth with pebbles! I definitely can’t enter a protected underground tunnel while holding a princess that touches absolutely everything she sees.

I hit the delete button and erased my adventurous Australian day dream. I only had one option: go with the (baby’s) flow!

Before I knew it, I was boarding a flight holding a toddler in one arm and a bag full of her crap in the other. The only part of the trip I had meticulously planned was regarding the baby’s flight: how much milk to bring, pre-cutting snacks for the road, gearing up on new toys for her entertainment, stacking up a ridiculous amount of diapers… Other than that, I had zero plans. I knew nothing about Perth, had no idea what we’d be doing there and I really didn’t care. All I could think about, was making it through the hourlong drive to the airport, getting through customs and keeping my sanity during the 3 hour flight as a single parent with toddler. That’s when I encountered my first surprise…

Flying solo with a baby or toddler is quite all right!

You wouldn’t believe how many people reached out to me or spontaneously helped out. At every check in the airport, I would turn and find someone either picking up my bag for me or fetching me a trolley while I juggled kid, bags, passports and boarding passes.

During the flight, I mostly encountered compassionate, smiling faces giving me kudos for traveling along with my daughter. The kid waving, smiling and blowing kisses at all the passengers, probably helped with that.

Bali baby is not accustomed to wearing shoes, so she wanders through King’s Park in socks.

As we smoothly passed the first ‘single parent travel test’, my excitement went through the roof. We had an Australian stamp in our passports! From now on, I could start saying douchy things like “When I took my daughter to Australia… ” or “My daughter traveled to 3 continents by the time she started to walk”. Douchy indeed, but proud, even more so!

It was only when we stood in the arrival hall and I couldn’t find my friend who was supposed to pick us up, that I realised I had not slightly prepared for this trip. Where would I stay if she wouldn’t show up? How do you get to the centre of town? Though it’s not the first time I land in a country I have made absolutely no plans for and hardly know anything about, it is the first time I do this while having a kid in tow… I suddenly felt the responsibility weighing on my shoulders.

Parent and child in King’s Park, Perth

I realised once again this trip would be different than any other I had taken before. “Old me” would have probably been carelessly sipping on a cappuccino in an airport café as I waited for my friend. I’d be catching up on some news while vaguely putting together a backup plan incase she wouldn’t show up. “New me”, however, was pacing up and down the hall, anxiously singing nursery rhymes hoping our royal cuteness wouldn’t throw a hunger-led tantrum…

I wondered if travel would ever be the same again. Probably not. Definitely not when it comes to single parent travel.

Eventually, my friend showed up and we spent the following days catching up…

It wasn’t always easy to share the attention

Meeting new friends…

Beach hopping…

Wandering the quaint streets of Freemantle…

Going out for elaborate breakfasts, which seems to be the meal Australians take most pride in.

Taking spring walks along meadows filled with wild flowers

There was even space for some wine tasting after all!

As you can see, we had to replace all the exciting adventures with low key, baby friendly activities. What shocked me most was…

It didn’t bother me at all!

These vanilla activities actually made all of us feel comfortable and at ease. No stress, no pressure. Just pure enjoyment of being in the now. It’s without a doubt a different travel style that I’m accustomed to but single parent travel turns out to be quite enjoyable.

Over the past years, I have traveled so much, jetting off to some foreign nation has become an easy trick. I hop from one country to the next without thinking much of it, as the challenge of it all has faded. Single parent travel or travel with a toddler in general, has once again turned travel into a challenge, a push out of my comfort zone.

Let’s do this again some day!

The post “This was not how I pictured my first visit to Australia” first appeared on Travel Cake.

March 21, 2017
Dear Santa, I’ve been a lousy traveler – but here’s my 2017 wish list anyway

Dear Santa,

I’ve been a lousy traveler this year. I did not browse any colourful indigenous markets, nor did I experiment with crazy foods. I did not trek in the most beautiful valleys I’ve ever seen, nor did I immerse myself in sophisticated Persian culture. I did not go on any wild and dangerous motorcycle journeys, nor did I reside on a extremely remote island.

No-no, compared to recent years, this one was pretty meek.

I have openly enjoyed staying within my comfort zone and keeping the level of adventure to an absolute minimum.

While having a baby in tow most certainly had something to do with that, it wasn’t the sole reason.

I needed a little break from traveling. I wanted to settle down and build a more sustainable life. I wanted to focus on my business and invest in a different kind of personal growth. No doubt living in gorgeous Bali helped me tame the travel bug as well.

Our lovely neighbourhood in Bali

However, considering my situation, the little travel I did in 2016, was perfectly in line with the basics of my travel principles.

I explored my own (Balinese) back yard.

Sniffing out the cool air in the mountains around Munduk

Exploring the rugged island of Nusa Penida

Snorkeling in Amed

Chilling in the swanky beach town of Seminyak

Bathing in lush waterfalls in central Bali

Hiking the dazzling rice terraces around Ubud and Jatiluwih

I made short stints to 3 countries:

FRANCE

SINGAPORE

AUSTRALIA

Australia, the only new country I visited this year

I expanded my language skills to have a better connection with the local people and a more in depth understanding of their culture.

Getting close and personal with the Balinese culture

All things considered, maybe I wasn’t such a lousy traveler after all. Who’s to say what is a good or bad way to travel anyway? It’s a personal opinion, isn’t it?

So screw it; I’m sending you my travel wish list for 2017, Santa dearest. Moreover, I expect some of these to come true!

Disclaimer: I am a parent now, so technically that makes me Santa.

These are the 7 destinations on my somewhat realistic travel wish list for 2017:

Any African country – preferably one I haven’t visited yet

Ethiopia.

I miss the continent and I long to get to know other parts of it. I’m thinking Senegal/Gambia or Ethiopia. (image)

Norway

This destination has been on my wish list for many years, it’s time to make it happen! I’m already picturing myself trekking in the Norwegian fjords!

Sri Lanka

The spices, the tea, the culture… Reason enough to want to visit Sri Lanka! I’d love to spend an extended amount of time on the island while working.

Malta & Gozo

I wouldn’t necessarily travel to Malta as a tourist, but rather to prospect if Malta or Gozo could be our next temporary base. (image)

Any country in Eastern Europe – preferably one I haven’t traveled to yet

So far, all the countries I have visited in Eastern Europe have astounded me. I fell madly in love with Albania, was pleasantly surprised with Warsaw and had a delightful introduction to Montenegro. More please! (image)

Lebanon

The Middle East is my favourite region to travel to. I’m fascinated by the ancient cultures, I find the food exquisite and the language enchanting. From what I have heard and read, Lebanon is all that and more, with a very distinct personality. Those are some statements that need first hand investigation. (image)

Flores, Indonesia

Despite having lived in Indonesia for almost 2 years, I haven’t seen much of the islands yet. I will not leave this country again without exploring at least one more island! Additionally, I haven’t gone scuba diving in 3 years and I long to peek at the under water world again. Traveling to Flores would perfectly tick these two boxes. (image)

I’ve always loved my travel style and have been proud of the way I explored the corners of the world regardless of what would be considered “good” or bad by anyone else. Now that my travel batteries are reloaded, I look forward to continue exploring the world!

Which destinations are on your 2017 travel wish list?

The post “Dear Santa, I have been a lousy traveller” first appeared on Travel Cake.

December 25, 2016
What it’s like to travel in East Timor

While preparing for my solo trip to Timor Leste, I noticed there was barley any online information on tourism and travel in East Timor. Though I was desperately hoping to find some inspiration from other travellers to prepare my journey, I found it exhilarating not to be in the know. I had no expectations and let everything surprise me.

Since those fruitless google searches, I’ve told myself I’d share everything I could about my travel experiences in East Timor. It’s a destination that deserves some more attention and that is worth a visit. I’ve already written an article on how travelling in East Timor can be quite challenging. I’ve also shared my bizarre culinary experience in Timor Leste, but since it’s not a cookie-cutter destination, you may need some visual information to help you take the plunge.

East Timor is a great stop over for a seasoned traveler looking for a little edge

Though I’m far from being an expert on East Timor and the issues the country is facing, I found it to be a particularly interesting travel destination. One that doesn’t just inspire “ooh’s and ahh’s” but rather makes you question global politics and forces you to reflect on human nature. Traveling in East Timor was a reality check reminding me of the basics in travel as well as the basics in life. I know, that sounds like pretty heavy shizzle for a weeklong stint but then again, isn’t that the whole point of travel?

As heavy hearted or challenging as travel in East Timor can be, there is plenty of light and colour waiting to be discovered.

Here is travel in East Timor in a few of my favourite snaps

Cristo rei, a giant statue of Jesus Christ standing on a globe overlooking Dili’s bay. Ascend the hill for some mild exercise and a face to face with JC.

The view from Cristo Rei is worth the climb. Cape Fatucama (pictured below) offers white sand beach and clear waters.

Cruising by Dili’s seafront.

Making friends with local beachgoers while hanging out at the beaches just outside the centre,

The market, as always, one of the most colourful spots to pick up the local vibe.

At times, the people in East Timor may seem a little grumpy but once you connect with them, the facade drops and magic happens.

A day trip from Dili or overnight stint to Atauro island flashes you to another era. Back to basics. It’s also a superb scuba diving location.

On the road to Maubisse we traversed winding roads over steep hills dotted with coffee plantations.

The centre of Maubisse has a certain charm to it. Why, I can’t quite put a finger on.

Colour and creativity are features I appreciate in my means of transport.

A local sunset beach activity: foraging shellfish at low tide.

Have you travelled to a destination you knew next to nothing about? Where was it?

The post “What it’s like to travel in East Timor” first appeared on Travel Cake.

September 22, 2016
In Search of Authenticity at Otavalo Market, Ecuador

A visit to the indigenous market of Otavalo in Ecuador is probably one of the most advertised activities in Quito’s guest houses and travel agencies. It’s said to be one of the largest and oldest indigenous market of South America and every single guide book will tell you it’s a must-do if you’re visiting the Quito area. That’s exactly the reason why I wasn’t sure if I’d want to go. (more…)

June 16, 2016
Where to eat Vegan in Ubud, Bali

I’m not a vegan but the recent “clean eating craze”, has left me fascinated by the trending dietary belief systems. Gluten free, low GI, macrobiotic, vegan… I wanted to learn more. Particularly about vegan food.

Growing up with the Belgian/French food culture, I’ve always been a little sceptical towards cooking without “the good stuff”, i.e butter, eggs, milk, cheese, cream…

Like most uninformed non-vegans, I thought vegans generally don’t eat much, that their food consists of boring ol’ carrots and lettuce for breakfast, lunch and dinner. But every vegan I’ve crossed paths with has sworn to me that their meals are rich, tasty and creative. Just as much so as non-vegan dishes. I believed them yet I was still completely unfamiliar with the cuisine. This was something I strongly felt had to change. I couldn’t possible spend another year or so in the healthy food-yoga-medition-hippie town of Ubud without knowing something as ‘basic’ as what modern vegan fare entails.

smoothie bowl for breakfast

As a means to broaden my knowledge of vegan cooking, I challenged myself to eat vegan -and only vegan- for 10 days. I knew committing to an intense trial period was the only way for me to really get into vegan cuisine. I thought the challenge would be relatively easy as we live in Ubud, where we eat out daily and the vegan-friendly restaurants are plentiful. At least easier than if I were to be doing the cooking.

So this blog post could actually be titled:

Vegan restaurants in Ubud that will blow non-vegans’s minds

vegan sushi

The takeaway on being a vegan in Ubud:

Ten days of vegan eating flashed by incredibly fast. I ate refined, creative and bold dishes that certainly satisfied my hunger. I drank frothy coffee based drinks which almost beat the ‘real deal’, indulged in beautiful rich deserts, some of which definitely beat the original recipes. Not once did I miss animal products -ok, maybe once, when everybody was getting French croissants- but generally speaking, it was not hard to eat vegan in Ubud. The whole journey into discovery was so exciting, I was looking forward to the next meal every single day.

Did I physically feel different? Not really, though I felt generally lighter. Now that the trial is over, I’m going on a serious diet. A financial diet, that is. All the restaurants I visited are of great quality and worth their prices but dining there does eat away at your budget. So for the next few days; local nasi goreng (fried rice) every day!

To complete this post, here are the restaurants where I ate – and licked my fingers- during my vegan discovery week. Some of the best vegan spots in Ubud.

1. SAGE

Definitely mine and many of Ubud healthy eating expats’s favourite. Even for meat lovers, this place is a must try. It makes you instantly forget there is such thing as animal products. This is undoubtedly the place to go, for a dabble in vegan cuisine.

vegan cuisine at Sage

Address: Jl. Nyuh Bulan 1, Nyuh Kunning, Ubud

2. BELOVED EARTH CAFÉ

A ‘sustainable eco restaurant respecting the earth and striving for harmony’. You’ll find Beloved Earth Café in the lovely gardens of ‘Swasti Eco lodge’. There’s also a pool which is open to restaurant guests.

offering a wide variety of vegan and RAW dishes and deserts

colourful dining area

set in a beautiful eco garden

Address: Jalan Nyuh Bojog, Nyuh Kunning, Ubud

3. ALCHEMY

Vegan café, juice bar, health store, holistic clinic, organic farm… Alchemy is more than just a vegan restaurant, it’s almost a small community centre, priding itself in honouring mother nature and its inhabitants. Sound to ‘floaty’ for you? Forget about the latter and just remember this then: they have an excellent breakfast bar you should try.

from the breakfast bar

sustainable delivery boxes

Address: Jl. Penestanan Klod No.75, Ubud

4. YELLOW FLOWER CAFE

The big draw about this eatery is the setting. It feels as though you’ve landed in a Roald Dahl story. Getting there, is just as dreamy, you’ll have to climb a gorgeous set of stairs into Penestanan.

steps into Penestanan

straight out of a children’s book (source)

Address: Sayan, Ubud (Climb the Penestanan steps in Ubud, turn right at the noticeboard, then follow the path)

5. CLEAR

“Eat the food you wish to be”, that’s Clear’s motto. Though I’m having a hard time conceptualise that saying, I’ve enjoyed eating their fresh, organic meals long before this little experiment started. Their juices and elixirs are sublime and worth a try too.

Yumm! (source)

Address: Jalan Campuhan, Ubud

6. KAFÉ and GARDEN KAFÉ

“A culinary innovation in healthy food”. You’ll find little kafé on the grounds of the Yoga Barn, an excellent spot to indulge in vegan renourishment after a sweaty yoga class. Those not into yoga, might feel more at home in the other Kafé which is located in one of the main streets of Ubud.

Macrobiotic bowl of steamed veggies

Address:

Kafé: Jalan Hanoman , Central Ubud

Garden kafé: Jalan Raya Pengosekan, Ubud

7. DAYU’S

Healthy slow food. Now here’s a chilled out place where the chef really gets creative with fresh local produce. Dine here only when you have nowhere urgent to be though.

vegan burrito

porridge with coconut milk

Address: Jalan Sugriwa, Ubud

8. DOWN TO EARTH (‘Earth Café and market’)

Restaurant, health store and (!!) vegan cinema. I bet you haven’t heard of vegan cinemas very often. Check it out!

Middle Eastern influenced dishes

restaurant annex health store

Address: Jalan Goutama selatan, Ubud

9. KISMET

Long before this vegan experiment, Kismet had already conquered a spot in my top 3 favourite restaurants in Ubud. It’s not just the food, it’s the interior, the über cool atmosphere and the beautiful people you’ll find there. My top recommandation is the “asian bowl with noodles and vegan satay”. Enjoy!

Kismet chill out area

asian bowl with vegan satay accompanied by a glass of jasmine kombucha.

hello sandwich and desert counter, nomnomnom

Address: Jalan Goutama, Ubud

10. FRESH (Taksu restaurant)

You’d never suspect you’re seated in the middle of jam packed Ubud. Taksu is a haven of tranquility serving excellent food. You’ll find the RAW and vegan menu in their terrace restaurant “Fresh”, whereas the garden café offers an attractive set of non-vegan meals.

the tranquil garden café

Address: Jalan Goutama, Ubud

11. SOMA

“High vibes, organic delights”. Soma’s tagline summons it up perfectly.

coconut hang out at Soma

Address: Jalan Goutama, Ubud

12. THE SEEDS OF LIFE

WOW! Not only vegan, but also RAW. This place was a true eye opener during my vegan trial period. I was so pleasently surprised by the dishes on the menu, I considered signing up for the Raw chef training they offer. “If this is what I’ll be able to cook, tell me where to sign up!” Unfortunately the “raw chef training” is too much above my budget so I’ll have to satisfy myself with dining in SOL.

dragon fruit chia pudding

the new seeds of life interior

papaya pancakes

I swear I did not JUST eat deserts during my vegan trial period

Address: Jalan Goutama, Ubud

13. BALI BUNDA (Bali Buda)

“Real food by real people”. Restaurant and health store near the yoga studio ‘Radiantly Alive’. Another great place for a satisfying vegan meal possibly in company with your non-vegan friends.

gado gado, an indonesian classic. Mixed veggies, rice and tofu with a spicy peanut sauce.

Address: Jalan Jembawan, Ubud

14. LIVING FOODLAB

You’ll find this place on the grounds of HUBUD, ubud’s first co-working space. With a nice view over rice fields it’ s a great spot to relax while you wait for your food to arrive.

Address: Monkey Forest No.88X, Ubud

There are quite a few more vegan friendly restaurants in Ubud but 10 days was too little time to try them all. Let’s say I’m keeping those for a possible round 2 of vegan eating in the near future.

Have you tried vegan cuisine? Did you like it?

*Special thanks to Sam and Forest for helping me with this post! *

The post “where to eat vegan in Ubud” first appeared on Travel Cake.

June 9, 2016
What to Wear in Iran

Figuring out my wardrobe for my trip to Iran turned out to be a very interesting part of the travel planning. How do you dress in a country where showing your hair in public is illegal? Despite the fact that I had conducted some serious research, I was still feeling insecure about the outfits bulking up my backpack. I crossed my fingers, hoping that my outfits were descent enough and figured I could always buy a more appropriate attire if it wasn’t the case.

I traveled in Iran at the end of autumn and with temperatures dropping significantly, it didn’t feel unnatural covering myself up. You may have a different experience if traveling to Iran during spring or summer.

Enjoying the Iranian autumn scenery

Here’s a short summary of what to wear in Iran…

MEN

As it so often is, the dress code for men is simple as can be. You could sum it up in just a few words: everyday street wear. Leave your shorts and flip flops at home and you’re basically good to go. We found long-sleeved, cotton or linen shirts to be the perfect attire for men. You can roll up the sleeves on hot days and it makes you look relatively classy. Iranian men dress sharp and take good care of their appearances, you’ll fit right in.

when it comes to dressing culturally appropriate, men always have it easier

Let’s move on the the more complex part of the equation:

WOMEN

For women it’s a bit more of an adjustment.

HEADSCARF

Or hijab. When in public, you are obliged by law to cover your hair at all times. So yes, in the hotel lobby and in the restaurant but no, not in your room or at a friend’s house. There is no restriction on how colourful your hijab can be, anything goes. Though most women wear somewhat sober colours; pastels, neutrals or dark scarves with a subtle print or none at all. As a noob, avoid silk headscarves as they tend to slide off your hair very easily. A cotton based scarf will do the trick for us “hijab amateurs”.

wearing loosely wrapped headscarf. I quite enjoyed not having to brush my hair every day

Note: If you look at the Iranian women in cities, you’ll see plenty wearing their scarves as far back as possible, showing off a big part of their hair. By doing so, the majority of them are making a political statement and have taken on the risk of being “scolded” by the morality police (yes, the morality police is real in Iran). Though visitors are not nearly as harshly judged as local women, I’d advise you to comply to the rules and let your hijab cover most of your hair. That being said, it’s totally fine to have a few locks peeking from your headscarf.

MANTEAU

A manteau is a light overcoat which covers your clothing. Manteaus come in a wide variety of shapes and colours but serve the same purpose: hiding your curves. You could buy your manteau in Iran however your everyday coat from home should be could enough. Think ‘trench coat’, ‘parka’ or ‘cloak’. You can also get away with a lengthy oversized sweater. As long as it’s not figure hugging and has a minimal length of just below your ‘derrière’. It feels quite awkward to keep on your jacket while sitting at an indoor restaurant table but you get used to it. Sort of.

my old trusty parka as a manteau

baggy pants and oversized lengthy sweater revealing zero curves

Underneath your manteau, you can wear whatever you want since the manteau stays on in public.

Just make sure that:

– You cover your legs down to the ankle. A loose fitting maxi dress or skirt should do the trick.

– You cover your neckline, arms and body.

Maxi skirt with a knee length cardigan on top.

Tight jeans seem to be accepted and widely worn. Cover up those thighs though!

SHOES AND ACCESSORIES

Open-toed sandals are tolerated though you might feel a little “naked” wearing them. A more comfortable choice would be a flat shoe – a ballerina or a sneaker. Consider a pair of solid flat boots during the colder seasons.

Because I had no other boots in my collection and refused to purchase a new pair solely for this trip -meet a woman who owns just 3 pairs of shoes- I ended up wearing heeled boots on cold days. I definitely stood out in them which made me feel uncomfortable. One guy even told me this was the snobby style for rich girls in the city. I couldn’t in the slightest relate to that. So maybe leave your heels at home.

In terms of accessories, wear what you usually would during any other trip. What works best for me is to keep it minimal and add some local bling along the way.

rich girl heels and a backpack with Persian design, gifted by a local friend

CHADOR

A chador is a large piece of fabric that covers your entire body head to toe. Whilst it is the dress of choice of some Iranian women, you are not required to wear a chador except when visiting certain mosques at certain times. You will be loaned a chador when necessary. Don’t worry if you’re unsure of how to wear it, the women will guide you.

I was handed this bedsheet look-a-like chador at the entrance of the mosque. Most women wear a more upscale, black chador.

MAKE-UP

You will see Iranian women made up beautifully. Make-up is an important part of their style, primarily in big cities. You could join in on the trend and show up at a fast food joint with an extreme cat eye (because there is -at least officially- no party scene in Iran so where else would you show off your face art?) I recommend leaving the heavy make up and flashy lipstick to the local girls who have limited opportunities to publicly “strut their stuff”. Besides, too much make- up can be reason enough to be stopped by the morality police.

It’s actually quite simple to dress correctly in Iran as a traveller. Wear your regular, somewhat conservative every day clothes topped off with a midi jacket. Cover your hair, double check the mirror that you’re figure is concealed et voilà, you’re ready to step outside. Iranian women are generally incredibly well dressed and pull off sophisticated, stylish looks, which you probably won’t be able to mirror, wearing your traveler’s garment. And that’s ok.

However, if you’d like to make an attempt to do so, check out these gorgeous bloggers for inspiration. Note that they are not Persian but many of their outfits would be appropriate to wear in Iran.

Ruba Zai, on Instagram @hijabhills

Summer Albarcha, on Instagram @summeralbarcha

Maryam of sincerelymaryam, on Instagram @sincerelymaryam

Have you ever scratched your head while packing, not knowing exactly which clothes bring? What destination(s) were you packing for?

The post “What to wear in Iran” first appeared on Travel Cake.

May 26, 2016
How living in Bali ruined me

I know the title sounds a little dramatic but hear me out…

After having lived a year in Bali we were sure a change of scenery would do us good. Word around the net was, Ecuador and Colombia were the new buzzing hot spots, perfect for digital nomads like us. So we crossed the globe in search of our new nomadic headquarters. We set foot in South America psyched up and convinced we would find ‘the one’. That one town that would feel like home. The one boasting everything a digital nomad could ever dream of: fast internet, an affordable cost of living, a moderate climate, an effortless visa policy and an amicable general atmosphere. Preferably set in a natural environment and with a variety of great eats. Talk about high standards…

stunning natural scenery

Once in South America, we couldn’t help but compare every potential living spot to our old (romanticised) lives in Bali. We’d always find something that wasn’t quite right; too cold, too urban, too expensive, too loud, too far from civilisation, too much this, not enough that… We didn’t fully realise it then, but we were actually on the look out for a second Bali. A second Ubud to be more precise.

We loved this gem in Ecuador but… there was a but.

Ecuador and Colombia are both absolutely stunning countries with mind blowing and incredibly diverse nature, friendly people, lots of exciting activities, great internet, endless sunshine, top notch food, good vibes… Yet we couldn’t see ourselves living in any of the towns and cities we visited. What was going on? I usually find a great deal of places I’d love to live in during my travels. I puzzled over the issue and finally understood what was going on. There was positively nothing wrong with these places, they just weren’t Ubud.

searching for a home in Ecuador

It was as though we had just gotten through a break up and were still hung up on our ex-love. Still thinking about her, comparing every new encounter to her, secretly wishing we were still with her… So the big question arose: do you return to your old love or do you push through until you’ve completely forgotten about her?

In any other situation, I would opt for the latter, no questions asked. But these were different circumstances; we didn’t leave Bali because we got bored of her or because we needed a break but rather for practical reasons. You could say, we never really broke up. Be it as it may, Bali was still in our heads and in our hearts. We were not done with her.

in Bali somewhere along the road

That is why we decided to move back to Ubud! Back to our old lives, with a new addition. Though our situation, goals and expectations are different this time around, it feels like we’ve landed exactly where we need to be. However, I can’t help but wonder, is this it? Will I never be able to live anywhere else because I’ve idealised life in Bali? Has the island ruined me for other places?

To be continued…

The post “how living in Bali ruined me” first appeared on Travel Cake.

Is there a place you can’t help but compare all the others too?

May 12, 2016
Where to Travel in Iran – our two week itinerary

The moment we entered Iran, we immediately knew: two weeks is way too little time to visit this vast, fascinating country! Unfortunately we can’t always take month-long vacations, so we figured: two weeks is better than nothing! Although it meant we’d have to make some tough decisions regarding the places we’d visit. Considering we were traveling in autumn, the southern loop seemed like the obvious choice. It also happens to be where the country’s highlights are situated.

This is where we spent our 2 weeks in Persia…

TEHRAN – 1 Day

The first thing we did the morning we landed in Teheran was to book a domestic flight South. We aimed to get out of the capital as soon as possible. Now I’m not saying there is nothing interesting to see or do in Tehran but we figured there’d be more intriguing places to visit. Besides, we arrived during Ashura, Iran’s most important religious holiday which meant that the entire city was practically deserted. We managed to reserve seats on a flight that evening, leaving us with a full day to fill in Tehran. Since everything was closed, we spent the day drinking tea and mindlessly strolling down the quiet empty streets of an otherwise buzzing city.

prayers during Ashura

SHIRAZ – 2 Days

Just a short flight later, we arrived in Shiraz also known as the heart of Persian culture. “Shiraz”, that name… I imagined refined art, sophisticated poetry, elegant gardens, nightingales, romance and red wine. And that’s exactly what it was, well except for the wine since alcohol is illegal in Iran nowadays. Once again, due to the festivities of Ashura, we were limited in options of things to do. We mostly wandered around town, visited some iconic mosques, browsed the colourful bazar and shared some incredible meals with newfound local friends. We may have missed some of the city’s highlights but we experienced and learned about the fascinating religious holiday of Ashura, which I won’t go into further detail right now. It would need so much explaining it would have to be a post on its own.

ornate mosques in abundance

with surprising interior design

discovering the sweet stuff in the bazar

almost ripe oranges in the mosque’s court garden

the leaning tower of Shiraz

at one of our many tea breaks

PERSEPOLIS – NAQSH E ROSTAM & NAQSH E RAJAB – 1 Day

As a day trip from Shiraz, we chartered a taxi to another “mystical sounding” spot: Persepolis. I regret thinking we’d learn all there is to know about Persepolis from our guidebook and stories online. Reading about the ancient site is a good start but having a live guide enthusiastically telling stories, pointing out important details and explaining the symbolism on site, would have added value… Nonetheless, guide or no, walking amongst the ruins will spark your imagination.

the entrance of Persepolis

ruins that help you imagine what once was a grand majestic city.

After visiting Persepolis, we drove to Naqsh-e-Rostam & Naqsh-e-Rajab for a quick view of the majestic rock tombs. Impressive! Most taxi drivers or tours will advise you to add “Pasargadae” to your day trip. However, we skipped it and I must say, looking at fellow travellers’ pictures, we made the right decision. Though I’ve only heard good reviews from visitors of Pasargadae, whether you should go or not really depends on your interests and on how many ruins you can handle in one day.

rock tombs Naqsh e Rajab

YAZD – 2 Days

From Shiraz we took a nightbus to Yazd, an enchanting mud-brick desert city. My favourite city in Iran- I think. What made me love Yazd so much was the fact that it is so astonishingly different from any other city I had ever seen. Serene, quiet and entirely made of mud buldings… Come on! According to UNESCO, Yazd’s old town is the oldest city on earth. Can you imagine that?! Standing on the city’s rooftops, you get fairytale-like views over the brown city. Getting lost in Yazd felt truly magical.

exploring the streets of Yazd

sunset view from one of the many rooftops

tea time accompanied by Yazd’s signature sweets

KHARANAQ- MEYBOD – CHAK CHAK – 1 Day

In Yazd we met a driver with whom we arranged a day trip to the surrounding sites. Out of the three stops, despite the beautiful surroundings, we found the pilgrimage site of Chak Chak to be the least interesting to us visitors.

Chak Chak, Zoroastrian pilgrimage site

The 1800-year-old mud castle of Meybod (Narin Castle) was much more to our liking. I’m still puzzled about how a mud castle can be in such good shape after almost 2000 years of existence, surviving invasions, wars, modern changes… WOW!

Following a tasty lunch in a historic caravanserai -where strangely enough we were the only people- we headed to the mud-brick village of Kharanaq. This was by far the highlight of our day. Though I’m sure it’s not for everyone, we just loved “Indiana Jones-ing” in the crumbling, virtually deserted village.

lunch in a caravanserai

Karanaq

rooftops that made us feel like we had landed on another planet

pomegranates surrounding Kharanaq

GARMEH – 2 Days

Getting from Yazd to Garmeh was somewhat challenging but we made it! I’ve already raved about our stay in the desert oasis of Garmeh, it’s still easily one of my best travel experiences so far!

palm trees in the desert

Garmeh, desert oasis of my dreams

MESR – 2 Days

Because Garmeh was such a big hit, we extended our stay in the desert and headed to another, even more remote desert settlement: Mesr. We drove out with the new friends we’d made in Garmeh and had another remarkable stay in the desert! This time around there was dune bashing at sunset, stargazing, chasing renegade camels and desert sand hikes. Iv’e said it before and I’ll say it again: I love the desert!

sand dunes as far as the eye can see

our guesthouse in the middle of nowhere

ESFAHAN – 2 Days

The grandeur of Esfahan left us standing in awe. This is where you’ll find Iran’s most impressive, majestic architecture. You’ll be surrounded by sharply dressed youths having a good time out, families spending time together in parks and lovers dating somewhat publicly… Esfahan is a modern and vibrant city standing in strong contrast with more conservative places like Yazd.

Esfahan

Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, Isfahan

family day on the river banks

ABYANEH – 1 Day

Since we couldn’t find public transportation to the ancient village of Abyaneh, we hitchhiked there. Catching a ride was quite easy. Most people seem to visit Abyaneh as a day trip from Kashan but we figured we might as well spend the night. Apparently we were the only ones with that idea. Though this village is definitely not a “must-see”, we were thrilled to get a glimpse of a different Iran.

Irregular bus service to Abyaneh

streets of Abyaneh

All the locals we encountered in Abyaneh were elderly people dressed in a particular style. They looked very different from the people we had seen throughout the rest of the country.

KASHAN – 2 Days

Kashan, another place I was enamoured with. Whether it was due to the -once again- exceptional rooftops, our charming guesthouse, the abundant rose water, the “secret” gardens, the grand traditional houses or the lively bazars, I don’t know. Kashan really got under my skin.

just can’t get enough of these rooftops!

farmland hidden inside an old fortress in Kashan

traditional house

From Kashan it was a short ride to the end point of our trip: the international airport of Tehran. As you can see, we spent about two days in each destination. Because many of the attractions were closed due to the festivities of Ashura, this was just enough time not to feel rushed. We could have easily spent more time in each of the spots mentioned above and would have loved to visit other parts of the country. That’s why we promised ourselves there would be a next time! But in the end, the beauty of Iran lies, more than its sights or scenery, in its people. So any amount of time spent in the country is enough to at least get a taste of the Persian hospitality.

Have you been to Iran? Would you consider going?

The post “Where to travel in Iran- our two week itinerary” first appeared on Travel Cake.

February 1, 2016