Journey to the Togean islands, Indonesia

Togean islands, Sulawesi

I’m staring out the bus window with a deep, unwavering frown on my face. The lush Andes are rolling by in their full green glory, but I’m too far gone to care. I know I’m surrounded by staggering beauty—I can see it, even—but I can’t bring myself to feel anything close to awe. The high […]

2014 Travel Summary

I spent the last two days of 2014 in a haze, trying to beat jetlag and fatigue from the long transatlantic flight to South America. While the rest of the world was exchanging hugs and watching fireworks to ring in the new year, I was soundly asleep, cocooned in my warm bed. Despite the endless […]

What’s in Sulawesi?

Maybe I should start by answering the question: “Where is Sulawesi?”Among the 6,000 inhabited islands of Indonesia lies Sulawesi, one of the country’s largest. When I told my friends we were off to explore Sulawesi, they all gave me the same puzzled reaction: “Oh, how lovely… What’s in Sulawesi?”To be honest, I wasn’t entirely sure […]

Torajan Death Rituals

“Would you like to go to a funeral, m’am?” Not exactly the question you’d expect when stepping out of a long distance bus… And yet, what this man was proposing, is quite normal in Tana Toraja. In fact, funerals are the “main attraction” in the region. Visitors mostly come to learn about the Torajan culture […]

Off the Grid: Exploring Indonesia

Disapproving looks are thrown my way as I type this article on my tiny phone keyboard. Who spends time on their phones when they are on a small tropical island?! Well… Me. I’m in Bunaken, a lush island just off the coast of Sulawesi, Indonesia. The sea is warm, the coconut trees are a great […]

2013 Travel Summary

2013 flew by so fast, I barely saw the months pass.In terms of travel, it was insane. I moved from Europe to Asia and wound up in a place that “forces” me to leave the country at least every two months just to renew my visa.Not the worst deal, right? Here’s a look back at […]