Torajan Death Rituals

“Would you like to go to a funeral, m’am?”

Not exactly the question you’d expect when stepping out of a long distance bus… And yet, what this man was proposing, is quite normal in Tana Toraja. In fact, funerals are the “main attraction” in the region. Visitors mostly come to learn about the Torajan culture in which death plays a central — and very visible — role. The Torajans are known for their elaborate multi-day funeral rituals. Tana Toraja, which means land of the Toraja people, is located in South Sulawesi, Indonesia.

Intrigued, we accepted the invitation — and minutes after dropping our bags at the hotel, we were on our way to the funeral. Luther, our guide, advised us to bring a gift: a few packs of cigarettes.
“Cigarettes?” How ironic.
He also told us we were very lucky; this was the funeral of a wealthy lady who had long served as village chief.

 “Lucky”? What a confusing use of words…

The family welcomed us warmly and insisted we sit with them. Tea and biscuits were served. We were encouraged to chat about our home countries — all while surrounded by grieving relatives and ceremonial chants. It was surreal. The Western taboo around death was completely absent here

The Torajans seemed strangely relaxed — possibly because, in their culture, death doesn’t come with immediate finality.

When someone dies, they aren’t buried right away. Instead, the family begins preparing, sometimes for months or even years, to afford the grand funeral rites. In the meantime, the deceased is embalmed, wrapped in cloth, and kept at home — in the traditional tongkonan house — living under the same roof as the family.

The person isn’t considered dead, but merely “incurably ill” until the burial rites are complete. Family members continue to bring food, water, and yes — cigarettes — to the body daily. Failing to do so might anger the deceased’s spirit, causing misfortune for the entire village.

In Torajan culture, the funeral is the most important ceremony in life. One leads his life in order to have the biggest, most elaborate funeral possible. The 100 or more guests always bring a gift: cigarettes, rice, a pig or a buffalo according to their financial ability. The funeral lasts 11 days and consists of serval rites.

Torajan funerals are a bloody affair. The deceased’s soul is believed to travel to the afterlife on a buffalo or horse. How do you bring livestock to your afterlife? By sacrificing it, of course. Therefore, the more buffalo offered, the more reassured the family will be that their loved ones will reach his or her final destination safely. Apart from buffaloes, the dead will also need to bring along their most valuable possessions, including the rest of their livestock. This is one of the most important funeral rites: pigs and buffaloes are slaughtered by the dozens. Their souls join their owners while their flesh is distributed with the living family and guests. How’s that for a party favour, a big bag of meat…

Because buffaloes come with a high price tag, their horns are cut off and kept as a “trophy”. They are hung up on the deceased tongkonan and represent the family’s wealth. The more horns on your house, the wealthier your family.

When the funeral is completed the bodies are buried. Not under the ground, but in a cave or in a hole carved in a cliff. Family members craft a “tau-tau”; what could be compared to an avatar, representing the deceased. His/her spirit is believed to inhabit the tau-tau. They are placed on a balcony in front of the graves. Several times a year, after the rice harvest, family members ask their ancestors, inhabiting the tau-tau, for well being, good crops and healthy children.

Child burials are different. Infants are embalmed and placed in sitting position inside sepcifically designated trees. These special trees ooze a white sap when cut — symbolizing mother’s milk. The tree grows around the baby, embracing and absorbing it. These trees are sacred, and normally off-limits to outsiders — but we were allowed to visit an old one no longer in use.

Attending a funeral is weirdly enough, a top attraction in Tana Toraja. I found it such an incredible enrichment to experience how this culture engages with death: not with fear but with reverence, community and celebration. Watching the slaughtering was bit harsh, but it isn’t a show put on for tourists, this is Torajan reality — it’s real. It’s raw. It’s Torajan reality.
The people are so friendly and open, I quickly felt at ease.

‘Funeral season’ is in July and August, but there are funerals throughout the year. Tourists are welcome to attend them and are treated as honoured guests. Make sure you bring a gift to the family. There isn’t really a dress code, but obviously you should dress modestly and respectfully. If you have a black t-shirt, wear it; you’ll fit right in. The city of Rantepao is a good base to explore Tana Toraja.

Would animal sacrificing stop you from attending a local ritual?

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