Things you might want to know before going to Rwanda

Rwanda: A Refreshing Take on Africa, But Not for Everyone

Rwanda is a tiny African country nestled between some of East and Central Africa’s biggest players: Uganda, Tanzania, and the Democratic Republic of Congo. Its landlocked position, turbulent recent past, and modest size might raise a few eyebrows when it comes to its tourism potential.

But having lived in Rwanda during my childhood—weekends spent exploring, holidays filled with local getaways—I always regarded it as a fantastic travel destination. When I returned just two weeks ago, though, I saw the country with new eyes. This time, I wasn’t the resident expat enjoying my adoptive home. I was just a visitor.

Rwanda has changed tremendously since I left in ’94. It felt like discovering it all over again. And while I thoroughly enjoyed my stay, I noticed many travelers didn’t. Their disappointment got me thinking about what really to expect from Rwanda—especially if you’re planning to add it to your travel itinerary.

 

Travel in Rwanda is expensive

Especially when compared to its neighbours.

Transportation, food, drinks, safaris, activities… all come at a premium. Hotel prices in particular will eat into your budget. To give you an idea: we paid around €23 for a standard tent—without breakfast. A basic private double room cost about €40 a night. Keep in mind these are 2014 prices.

Sure, you can get by on less if you’re willing to rough it, but value for money? Rwanda doesn’t quite deliver on that front.

 

Rules are rules — and you will follow them

Rwanda is big on regulations, and they’re not just for show. People follow them.

For example: it’s the only non-Western country I’ve visited where every motorcycle taxi driver wears a helmet—and carries a second one for the passenger. They will refuse you if you won’t wear it (trust me, I tried).

It might feel rigid to some, but it also means minimal chaos and a strong sense of order.

 

It’s modern and well organised

Especially in Kigali.

There are street signs, a movie theatre, sidewalks, new-looking taxis, spotless streets lined with tall, flowery trees. Wi-Fi is everywhere. Coffeehouse chains dot the cityscape. Buses are clean, punctual, and not overcrowded (unlike the triple-stacked ones in Uganda).

Rural areas are a little less polished, but even there, things run pretty smoothly.

 

It’s safe- even after dark

You’ll find well-lit streets in many parts of the cities, and it’s not unusual to see expats jogging after sunset. That says a lot. I felt safe the entire time.

 

Single use plastic is banned

Non-biodegradable plastic bags are illegal. As in: your luggage will be checked at the airport for them. If you’re caught using one, you could face a fine of up to $150. Store owners risk a year in prison.

It’s strict—but effective. You won’t see the heaps of trash so common in other African capitals. Rwanda is striving to become the world’s first plastic-free nation. Aside from a small thriving underground trade in plastic bags, they’re on the right track.

 

The roads are twisty but in excellent condition

In fact, I’d say they’re better than the ones in Belgium (Rwanda’s former coloniser).

Off the beaten path, the road quality dips, but they’re still manageable. Renting a car is no issue—unless you’ve got a serious fear of heights. The winding roads might test your stomach though, so bring motion sickness pills if you need them.

 

There is a strange language situation

English only became an official language in 1994, and Rwanda’s entire education system switched from French to English in 2008. Today, Kinyarwanda, French, and English are all official.

It makes for some confusing conversations. Some people only speak English (mostly in Kigali), others only French, and many with little formal education speak only Kinyarwanda.

As a French and English speaker, I found myself constantly guessing the right language to start a conversation—and getting it wrong most of the time.

As an English and French speaker, I found it awkward to start every single conversation guessing which language to use, mostly choosing the wrong one first.

 

So, is Rwanda worth visiting? 

The disappointed travelers I met were looking for something Rwanda simply isn’t.

They wanted raw, gritty, traditional Africa. What they found instead was a place that’s clean, structured, modern, and surprisingly Westernized.

And while that’s all true, I personally found it refreshing. Here’s an Africa that’s moving forward. That cares about sustainability. That values art, expression, order, and safety. Things may not be perfect, but you can feel the progress—and that, to me, is a great starting point.

 

Would I recommend it?

Yes—but perhaps not as your only destination if you’re seeking a classic, essential “Africa experience.”

Rwanda is a fascinating side trip while visiting Uganda or Tanzania. If you’re after a “Gorillas in the Mist” kind of moment, then Rwanda is a must. But even then, I’d suggest combining it with somewhere else to balance out the contrast.

Rwanda is not what you expect. And maybe that’s exactly the point.

 

Have you ever though of Rwanda as a destination? Africa in general?

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