Myanmar: A Thousand? Try Hundreds of Thousands of Pagodas
Myanmar is often called the “land of a thousand pagodas.†A thousand feels wildly inaccurate.
“Hundreds of thousands†might be more fitting.
The Burmese seem to dedicate their lives to honouring Buddha — and building pagodas, stupas, and temples. Each structure holds relics or statues of Buddha, often in impossible numbers. Constructing a stupa earns believers spiritual credit: a handful of bonus karma points to help them level up in their next life, and eventually, reach that ultimate goal — nirvana.
As I travelled through the country, I discovered that Buddhism in Myanmar has its own unique flavour. In this version, there’s a distinct heaven and hell. Hell is a dark place beneath the earth, where sinners are sent temporarily before reincarnation. There, terrifying monsters spend their days creatively torturing the damned.
Heaven, in contrast, is a glowing realm in the sky — no hunger, no pain, no sadness. A mental and physical nirvana.
So back to the stupas — and why there are so many.
Building one dedicated to Buddha is believed to cleanse a generous chunk of one’s sins. It was explained to me, that most people in Myanmar believe constructing or maintaining a temple outweighs a lifetime of thieving, cheating, misconduct… even murder. Though, to be fair, murder might require a few extra-large temples. With the right amount of cash, a handful of pagodas, and the right intentions, one still stands a decent chance of strolling through the pearly gates of the afterlife.
I couldn’t help but wonder — is that why you see stupas everywhere?
In every direction, in the most unexpected places… Could this be evidence of centuries of bad behaviour among the rich and powerful? A spiritual cover-up in gold leaf and polished stone?
I wonder.
After three weeks in Myanmar, I remember thinking: “How is this even possible?â€
We’d be out in the middle of nowhere — not a single soul in sight — and then, rising out of the untamed wilderness: another temple. Often covered in hundreds (if not thousands) of tiny Buddha statues. At first, I was in awe. Eventually… I hit a wall.
Yes, friends, I had my first Buddha overdose. I couldn’t bring myself to enter another temple or admire another statue.
Now, to be clear: I love places of prayer. They’re often my favourite landmarks when exploring other countries. I’ve wandered through countless temples in India and Nepal, stared up at cathedral ceilings across Europe, and tiptoed barefoot through mosques in the Arab world. But never — never — have I seen this many houses of worship concentrated in a single country.
Still, despite the temple fatigue, I was oddly satisfied.
There’s something oddly joyful about reaching the point of spiritual sensory overload.
Have you ever gotten insensible to a local custom or curiosity while traveling?
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