No-no, compared to recent years, this one was pretty meek.
I have openly enjoyed staying within my comfort zone and keeping the level of adventure to an absolute minimum.
While having a baby in tow most certainly had something to do with that, it wasn’t the sole reason.
I needed a little break from traveling. I wanted to settle down and build a more sustainable life. I wanted to focus on my business and invest in a different kind of personal growth. No doubt living in gorgeous Bali helped me tame the travel bug as well.
Our lovely neighbourhood in Bali
However, considering my situation, the little travel I did in 2016, was perfectly in line with the basics of my travel principles.
I explored my own (Balinese) back yard.
Sniffing out the cool air in the mountains around Munduk
Exploring the rugged island of Nusa Penida
Snorkeling in Amed
Chilling in the swanky beach town of Seminyak
Bathing in lush waterfalls in central Bali
Hiking the dazzling rice terraces around Ubud and Jatiluwih
I made short stints to 3 countries:
FRANCE
SINGAPORE
AUSTRALIA
Australia, the only new country I visited this year
I expanded my language skills to have a better connection with the local people and a more in depth understanding of their culture.
Getting close and personal with the Balinese culture
All things considered, maybe I wasn’t such a lousy traveler after all. Who’s to say what is a good or bad way to travel anyway? It’s a personal opinion, isn’t it?
So screw it; I’m sending you my travel wish list for 2017, Santa dearest. Moreover, I expect some of these to come true!
Disclaimer: I am a parent now, so technically that makes me Santa.
These are the 7 destinations on my somewhat realistic travel wish list for 2017:
Any African country – preferably one I haven’t visited yet
Ethiopia.
I miss the continent and I long to get to know other parts of it. I’m thinking Senegal/Gambia or Ethiopia. (image)
Norway
This destination has been on my wish list for many years, it’s time to make it happen! I’m already picturing myself trekking in the Norwegian fjords!
Sri Lanka
The spices, the tea, the culture… Reason enough to want to visit Sri Lanka! I’d love to spend an extended amount of time on the island while working.
Malta & Gozo
I wouldn’t necessarily travel to Malta as a tourist, but rather to prospect if Malta or Gozo could be our next temporary base. (image)
Any country in Eastern Europe – preferably one I haven’t traveled to yet
The Middle East is my favourite region to travel to. I’m fascinated by the ancient cultures, I find the food exquisite and the language enchanting. From what I have heard and read, Lebanon is all that and more, with a very distinct personality. Those are some statements that need first hand investigation. (image)
Flores, Indonesia
Despite having lived in Indonesia for almost 2 years, I haven’t seen much of the islands yet. I will not leave this country again without exploring at least one more island! Additionally, I haven’t gone scuba diving in 3 years and I long to peek at the under water world again. Traveling to Flores would perfectly tick these two boxes. (image)
I’ve always loved my travel style and have been proud of the way I explored the corners of the world regardless of what would be considered “good” or bad by anyone else. Now that my travel batteries are reloaded, I look forward to continue exploring the world!
Which destinations are on your 2017 travel wish list?
While preparing for my solo trip to Timor Leste, I noticed there was barley any online information on tourism and travel in East Timor. Though I was desperately hoping to find some inspiration from other travellers to prepare my journey, I found it exhilarating not to be in the know. I had no expectations and let everything surprise me.
Since those fruitless google searches, I’ve told myself I’d share everything I could about my travel experiences in East Timor. It’s a destination that deserves some more attention and that is worth a visit. I’ve already written an article on how travelling in East Timor can be quite challenging. I’ve also shared my bizarre culinary experience in Timor Leste, but since it’s not a cookie-cutter destination, you may need some visual information to help you take the plunge.
East Timor is a great stop over for a seasoned traveler looking for a little edge
Though I’m far from being an expert on East Timor and the issues the country is facing, I found it to be a particularly interesting travel destination. One that doesn’t just inspire “ooh’s and ahh’s” but rather makes you question global politics and forces you to reflect on human nature. Traveling in East Timor was a reality check reminding me of the basics in travel as well as the basics in life. I know, that sounds like pretty heavy shizzle for a weeklong stint but then again, isn’t that the whole point of travel?
As heavy hearted or challenging as travel in East Timor can be, there is plenty of light and colour waiting to be discovered.
Here is travel in East Timor in a few of my favourite snaps
Cristo rei, a giant statue of Jesus Christ standing on a globe overlooking Dili’s bay. Ascend the hill for some mild exercise and a face to face with JC.
The view from Cristo Rei is worth the climb. Cape Fatucama (pictured below) offers white sand beach and clear waters.
Cruising by Dili’s seafront.
Making friends with local beachgoers while hanging out at the beaches just outside the centre,
The market, as always, one of the most colourful spots to pick up the local vibe.
At times, the people in East Timor may seem a little grumpy but once you connect with them, the facade drops and magic happens.
A day trip from Dili or overnight stint to Atauro island flashes you to another era. Back to basics. It’s also a superb scuba diving location.
On the road to Maubisse we traversed winding roads over steep hills dotted with coffee plantations.
The centre of Maubisse has a certain charm to it. Why, I can’t quite put a finger on.
Colour and creativity are features I appreciate in my means of transport.
A local sunset beach activity: foraging shellfish at low tide.
Have you travelled to a destination you knew next to nothing about? Where was it?
A visit to the indigenous market of Otavalo in Ecuador is probably one of the most advertised activities in Quito’s guest houses and travel agencies. It’s said to be one of the largest and oldest indigenous market of South America and every single guide book will tell you it’s a must-do if you’re visiting the Quito area. That’s exactly the reason why I wasn’t sure if I’d want to go. (more…)
I’m not a vegan but the recent “clean eating craze”, has left me fascinated by the trending dietary belief systems. Gluten free, low GI, macrobiotic, vegan… I wanted to learn more. Particularly about vegan food.
Growing up with the Belgian/French food culture, I’ve always been a little sceptical towards cooking without “the good stuff”, i.e butter, eggs, milk, cheese, cream…
Like most uninformed non-vegans, I thought vegans generally don’t eat much, that their food consists of boring ol’ carrots and lettuce for breakfast, lunch and dinner. But every vegan I’ve crossed paths with has sworn to me that their meals are rich, tasty and creative. Just as much so as non-vegan dishes. I believed them yet I was still completely unfamiliar with the cuisine. This was something I strongly felt had to change. I couldn’t possible spend another year or so in the healthy food-yoga-medition-hippie town of Ubud without knowing something as ‘basic’ as what modern vegan fare entails.
smoothie bowl for breakfast
As a means to broaden my knowledge of vegan cooking, I challenged myself to eat vegan -and only vegan- for 10 days. I knew committing to an intense trial period was the only way for me to really get into vegan cuisine. I thought the challenge would be relatively easy as we live in Ubud, where we eat out daily and the vegan-friendly restaurants are plentiful. At least easier than if I were to be doing the cooking.
So this blog post could actually be titled:
Vegan restaurants in Ubud that will blow non-vegans’s minds
vegan sushi
The takeaway on being a vegan in Ubud:
Ten days of vegan eating flashed by incredibly fast. I ate refined, creative and bold dishes that certainly satisfied my hunger. I drank frothy coffee based drinks which almost beat the ‘real deal’, indulged in beautiful rich deserts, some of which definitely beat the original recipes.Not once did I miss animal products -ok, maybe once, when everybody was getting French croissants- but generally speaking, it was not hard to eat vegan in Ubud. The whole journey into discovery was so exciting, I was looking forward to the next meal every single day.
Did I physically feel different? Not really, though I felt generally lighter. Now that the trial is over, I’m going on a serious diet. A financial diet, that is. All the restaurants I visited are of great quality and worth their prices but dining there does eat away at your budget. So for the next few days; local nasi goreng (fried rice) every day!
To complete this post, here are the restaurants where I ate – and licked my fingers- during my vegan discovery week. Some of the best vegan spots in Ubud.
1. SAGE
Definitely mine and many of Ubud healthy eating expats’s favourite. Even for meat lovers, this place is a must try. It makes you instantly forget there is such thing as animal products. This is undoubtedly the place to go, for a dabble in vegan cuisine.
vegan cuisine at Sage
Address: Jl. Nyuh Bulan 1, Nyuh Kunning, Ubud
2. BELOVED EARTH CAFÉ
A ‘sustainable eco restaurant respecting the earth and striving for harmony’. You’ll find Beloved Earth Café in the lovely gardens of ‘Swasti Eco lodge’. There’s also a pool which is open to restaurant guests.
offering a wide variety of vegan and RAW dishes and desertscolourful dining areaset in a beautiful eco garden
Address: Jalan Nyuh Bojog, Nyuh Kunning, Ubud
3. ALCHEMY
Vegan café, juice bar, health store, holistic clinic, organic farm… Alchemy is more than just a vegan restaurant, it’s almost a small community centre, priding itself in honouring mother nature and its inhabitants. Sound to ‘floaty’ for you? Forget about the latter and just remember this then: they have an excellent breakfast bar you should try.
from the breakfast barsustainable delivery boxes
Address: Jl. Penestanan Klod No.75, Ubud
4. YELLOW FLOWER CAFE
The big draw about this eatery is the setting. It feels as though you’ve landed in a Roald Dahl story. Getting there, is just as dreamy, you’ll have to climb a gorgeous set of stairs into Penestanan.
steps into Penestananstraight out of a children’s book (source)
Address: Sayan, Ubud (Climb the Penestanan steps in Ubud, turn right at the noticeboard, then follow the path)
5. CLEAR
“Eat the food you wish to be”, that’s Clear’s motto. Though I’m having a hard time conceptualise that saying, I’ve enjoyed eating their fresh, organic meals long before this little experiment started. Their juices and elixirs are sublime and worth a try too.
“A culinary innovation in healthy food”. You’ll find little kafé on the grounds of the Yoga Barn, an excellent spot to indulge in vegan renourishment after a sweaty yoga class. Those not into yoga, might feel more at home in the other Kafé which is located in one of the main streets of Ubud.
Macrobiotic bowl of steamed veggies
Address:
Kafé: Jalan Hanoman , Central Ubud
Garden kafé: Jalan Raya Pengosekan, Ubud
7. DAYU’S
Healthy slow food. Now here’s a chilled out place where the chef really gets creative with fresh local produce. Dine here only when you have nowhere urgent to be though.
vegan burritoporridge with coconut milk
Address: Jalan Sugriwa, Ubud
8. DOWN TO EARTH (‘Earth Café and market’)
Restaurant, health store and (!!) vegan cinema. I bet you haven’t heard of vegan cinemas very often. Check it out!
Middle Eastern influenced dishesrestaurant annex health store
Address: Jalan Goutama selatan, Ubud
9. KISMET
Long before this vegan experiment, Kismet had already conquered a spot in my top 3 favourite restaurants in Ubud. It’s not just the food, it’s the interior, the über cool atmosphere and the beautiful people you’ll find there. My top recommandation is the “asian bowl with noodles and vegan satay”. Enjoy!
Kismet chill out areaasian bowl with vegan satay accompanied by a glass of jasmine kombucha.hello sandwich and desert counter, nomnomnom
Address: Jalan Goutama, Ubud
10. FRESH (Taksu restaurant)
You’d never suspect you’re seated in the middle of jam packed Ubud. Taksu is a haven of tranquility serving excellent food. You’ll find the RAW and vegan menu in their terrace restaurant “Fresh”, whereas the garden café offers an attractive set of non-vegan meals.
the tranquil garden café
Address: Jalan Goutama, Ubud
11. SOMA
“High vibes, organic delights”. Soma’s tagline summons it up perfectly.
coconut hang out at Soma
Address: Jalan Goutama, Ubud
12. THE SEEDS OF LIFE
WOW! Not only vegan, but also RAW. This place was a true eye opener during my vegan trial period. I was so pleasently surprised by the dishes on the menu, I considered signing up for the Raw chef training they offer. “If this is what I’ll be able to cook, tell me where to sign up!” Unfortunately the “raw chef training” is too much above my budget so I’ll have to satisfy myself with dining in SOL.
dragon fruit chia puddingthe new seeds of life interiorpapaya pancakesI swear I did not JUST eat deserts during my vegan trial period
Address: Jalan Goutama, Ubud
13. BALI BUNDA (Bali Buda)
“Real food by real people”. Restaurant and health store near the yoga studio ‘Radiantly Alive’. Another great place for a satisfying vegan meal possibly in company with your non-vegan friends.
gado gado, an indonesian classic. Mixed veggies, rice and tofu with a spicy peanut sauce.
Address: Jalan Jembawan, Ubud
14. LIVING FOODLAB
You’ll find this place on the grounds of HUBUD, ubud’s first co-working space. With a nice view over rice fields it’ s a great spot to relax while you wait for your food to arrive.
Address: Monkey Forest No.88X, Ubud
There are quite a few more vegan friendly restaurants in Ubud but 10 days was too little time to try them all. Let’s say I’m keeping those for a possible round 2 of vegan eating in the near future.
Have you tried vegan cuisine? Did you like it?
*Special thanks to Sam and Forest for helping me with this post! *
Figuring out my wardrobe for my trip to Iran turned out to be a very interesting part of the travel planning. How do you dress in a country where showing your hair in public is illegal? Despite the fact that I had conducted some serious research, I was still feeling insecure about the outfits bulking up my backpack. I crossed my fingers, hoping that my outfits were descent enough and figured I could always buy a more appropriate attire if it wasn’t the case.
I traveled in Iran at the end of autumn and with temperatures dropping significantly, it didn’t feel unnatural covering myself up. You may have a different experience if traveling to Iran during spring or summer.
Enjoying the Iranian autumn scenery
Here’s a short summary of what to wear in Iran…
MEN
As it so often is, the dress code for men is simple as can be. You could sum it up in just a few words: everyday street wear. Leave your shorts and flip flops at home and you’re basically good to go. We found long-sleeved, cotton or linen shirts to be the perfect attire for men. You can roll up the sleeves on hot days and it makes you look relatively classy. Iranian men dress sharp and take good care of their appearances, you’ll fit right in.
when it comes to dressing culturally appropriate, men always have it easier
Let’s move on the the more complex part of the equation:
WOMEN
For women it’s a bit more of an adjustment.
HEADSCARF
Or hijab. When in public, you are obliged by law to cover your hair at all times. So yes, in the hotel lobby and in the restaurant but no, not in your room or at a friend’s house. There is no restriction on how colourful your hijab can be, anything goes. Though most women wear somewhat sober colours; pastels, neutrals or dark scarves with a subtle print or none at all. As a noob, avoid silk headscarves as they tend to slide off your hair very easily. A cotton based scarf will do the trick for us “hijab amateurs”.
wearing loosely wrapped headscarf. I quite enjoyed not having to brush my hair every day
Note: If you look at the Iranian women in cities, you’ll see plenty wearing their scarves as far back as possible, showing off a big part of their hair. By doing so, the majority of them are making a political statement and have taken on the risk of being “scolded” by the morality police (yes, the morality police is real in Iran). Though visitors are not nearly as harshly judged as local women, I’d advise you to comply to the rules and let your hijab cover most of your hair. That being said, it’s totally fine to have a few locks peeking from your headscarf.
MANTEAU
A manteau is a light overcoat which covers your clothing. Manteaus come in a wide variety of shapes and colours but serve the same purpose: hiding your curves. You could buy your manteau in Iran however your everyday coat from home should be could enough. Think ‘trench coat’, ‘parka’ or ‘cloak’. You can also get away with a lengthy oversized sweater. As long as it’s not figure hugging and has a minimal length of just below your ‘derrière’. It feels quite awkward to keep on your jacket while sitting at an indoor restaurant table but you get used to it. Sort of.
my old trusty parka as a manteaubaggy pants and oversized lengthy sweater revealing zero curves
Underneath your manteau, you can wear whatever you want since the manteau stays on in public.
Just make sure that:
– You cover your legs down to the ankle. A loose fitting maxi dress or skirt should do the trick.
– You cover your neckline, arms and body.
Maxi skirt with a knee length cardigan on top.
Tight jeans seem to be accepted and widely worn. Cover up those thighs though!
SHOES AND ACCESSORIES
Open-toed sandals are tolerated though you might feel a little “naked” wearing them. A more comfortable choice would be a flat shoe – a ballerina or a sneaker. Consider a pair of solid flat boots during the colder seasons.
Because I had no other boots in my collection and refused to purchase a new pair solely for this trip -meet a woman who owns just 3 pairs of shoes- I ended up wearing heeled boots on cold days. I definitely stood out in them which made me feel uncomfortable. One guy even told me this was the snobby style for rich girls in the city. I couldn’t in the slightest relate to that. So maybe leave your heels at home.
In terms of accessories, wear what you usually would during any other trip. What works best for me is to keep it minimal and add some local bling along the way.
rich girl heels and a backpack with Persian design, gifted by a local friend
CHADOR
A chador is a large piece of fabric that covers your entire body head to toe. Whilst it is the dress of choice of some Iranian women, you are not required to wear a chador except when visiting certain mosques at certain times. You will be loaned a chador when necessary. Don’t worry if you’re unsure of how to wear it, the women will guide you.
I was handed this bedsheet look-a-like chador at the entrance of the mosque. Most women wear a more upscale, black chador.
MAKE-UP
You will see Iranian women made up beautifully. Make-up is an important part of their style, primarily in big cities. You could join in on the trend and show up at a fast food joint with an extreme cat eye (because there is -at least officially- no party scene in Iran so where else would you show off your face art?) I recommend leaving the heavy make up and flashy lipstick to the local girls who have limited opportunities to publicly “strut their stuff”. Besides, too much make- up can be reason enough to be stopped by the morality police.
It’s actually quite simple to dress correctly in Iran as a traveller. Wear your regular, somewhat conservative every day clothes topped off with a midi jacket. Cover your hair, double check the mirror that you’re figure is concealed et voilà, you’re ready to step outside. Iranian women are generally incredibly well dressed and pull off sophisticated, stylish looks, which you probably won’t be able to mirror, wearing your traveler’s garment. And that’s ok.
However, if you’d like to make an attempt to do so, check out these gorgeous bloggers for inspiration. Note that they are not Persian but many of their outfits would be appropriate to wear in Iran.
I know the title sounds a little dramatic but hear me out…
After having lived a year in Bali we were sure a change of scenery would do us good. Word around the net was, Ecuador and Colombia were the new buzzing hot spots, perfect for digital nomads like us. So we crossed the globe in search of our new nomadic headquarters. We set foot in South America psyched up and convinced we would find ‘the one’. That one town that would feel like home. The one boasting everything a digital nomad could ever dream of: fast internet, an affordable cost of living, a moderate climate, an effortless visa policy and an amicable general atmosphere. Preferably set in a natural environment and with a variety of great eats. Talk about high standards…
stunning natural scenery
Once in South America, we couldn’t help but compare every potential living spot to our old (romanticised) lives in Bali. We’d always find something that wasn’t quite right; too cold, too urban, too expensive, too loud, too far from civilisation, too much this, not enough that… We didn’t fully realise it then, but we were actually on the look out for a second Bali. A second Ubud to be more precise.
We loved this gem in Ecuador but… there was a but.
Ecuador and Colombia are both absolutely stunning countries with mind blowing and incredibly diverse nature, friendly people, lots of exciting activities, great internet, endless sunshine, top notch food, good vibes… Yet we couldn’t see ourselves living in any of the towns and cities we visited. What was going on? I usually find a great deal of places I’d love to live in during my travels. I puzzled over the issue and finally understood what was going on. There was positively nothing wrong with these places, they just weren’t Ubud.
searching for a home in Ecuador
It was as though we had just gotten through a break up and were still hung up on our ex-love. Still thinking about her, comparing every new encounter to her, secretly wishing we were still with her… So the big question arose: do you return to your old love or do you push through until you’ve completely forgotten about her?
In any other situation, I would opt for the latter, no questions asked. But these were different circumstances; we didn’t leave Bali because we got bored of her or because we needed a break but rather for practical reasons. You could say, we never really broke up. Be it as it may, Bali was still in our heads and in our hearts. We were not done with her.
in Bali somewhere along the road
That is why we decided to move back to Ubud! Back to our old lives, with a new addition. Though our situation, goals and expectations are different this time around, it feels like we’ve landed exactly where we need to be. However, I can’t help but wonder, is this it? Will I never be able to live anywhere else because I’ve idealised life in Bali? Has the island ruined me for other places?
The moment we entered Iran, we immediately knew: two weeks is way too little time to visit this vast, fascinating country! Unfortunately we can’t always take month-long vacations, so we figured: two weeks is better than nothing! Although it meant we’d have to make some tough decisions regarding the places we’d visit. Considering we were traveling in autumn, the southern loop seemed like the obvious choice. It also happens to be where the country’s highlights are situated.
This is where we spent our 2 weeks in Persia…
TEHRAN – 1 Day
The first thing we did the morning we landed in Teheran was to book a domestic flight South. We aimed to get out of the capital as soon as possible. Now I’m not saying there is nothing interesting to see or do in Tehran but we figured there’d be more intriguing places to visit. Besides, we arrived during Ashura, Iran’s most important religious holiday which meant that the entire city was practically deserted. We managed to reserve seats on a flight that evening, leaving us with a full day to fill in Tehran. Since everything was closed, we spent the day drinking tea and mindlessly strolling down the quiet empty streets of an otherwise buzzing city.
prayers during Ashura
SHIRAZ – 2 Days
Just a short flight later, we arrived in Shiraz also known as the heart of Persian culture. “Shiraz”, that name… I imagined refined art, sophisticated poetry, elegant gardens, nightingales, romance and red wine. And that’s exactly what it was, well except for the wine since alcohol is illegal in Iran nowadays. Once again, due to the festivities of Ashura, we were limited in options of things to do. We mostly wandered around town, visited some iconic mosques, browsed the colourful bazar and shared some incredible meals with newfound local friends. We may have missed some of the city’s highlights but we experienced and learned about the fascinating religious holiday of Ashura, which I won’t go into further detail right now. It would need so much explaining it would have to be a post on its own.
ornate mosques in abundancewith surprising interior designdiscovering the sweet stuff in the bazaralmost ripe oranges in the mosque’s court gardenthe leaning tower of Shirazat one of our many tea breaks
PERSEPOLIS – NAQSH E ROSTAM & NAQSH E RAJAB – 1 Day
As a day trip from Shiraz, we chartered a taxi to another “mystical sounding” spot: Persepolis. I regret thinking we’d learn all there is to know about Persepolis from our guidebook and stories online. Reading about the ancient site is a good start but having a live guide enthusiastically telling stories, pointing out important details and explaining the symbolism on site, would have added value… Nonetheless, guide or no, walking amongst the ruins will spark your imagination.
the entrance of Persepolisruins that help you imagine what once was a grand majestic city.
After visiting Persepolis, we drove to Naqsh-e-Rostam & Naqsh-e-Rajab for a quick view of the majestic rock tombs. Impressive! Most taxi drivers or tours will advise you to add “Pasargadae” to your day trip. However, we skipped it and I must say, looking at fellow travellers’ pictures, we made the right decision. Though I’ve only heard good reviews from visitors of Pasargadae, whether you should go or not really depends on your interests and on how many ruins you can handle in one day.
rock tombs Naqsh e Rajab
YAZD – 2 Days
From Shiraz we took a nightbus to Yazd, an enchanting mud-brick desert city. My favourite city in Iran- I think. What made me love Yazd so much was the fact that it is so astonishingly different from any other city I had ever seen. Serene, quiet and entirely made of mud buldings… Come on! According to UNESCO, Yazd’s old town is the oldest city on earth. Can you imagine that?! Standing on the city’s rooftops, you get fairytale-like views over the brown city. Getting lost in Yazd felt truly magical.
exploring the streets of Yazdsunset view from one of the many rooftopstea time accompanied by Yazd’s signature sweets
KHARANAQ- MEYBOD – CHAK CHAK – 1 Day
In Yazd we met a driver with whom we arranged a day trip to the surrounding sites. Out of the three stops, despite the beautiful surroundings, we found the pilgrimage site of Chak Chak to be the least interesting to us visitors.
Chak Chak, Zoroastrian pilgrimage site
The 1800-year-old mud castle of Meybod (Narin Castle) was much more to our liking. I’m still puzzled about how a mud castle can be in such good shape after almost 2000 years of existence, surviving invasions, wars, modern changes… WOW!
Following a tasty lunch in a historic caravanserai -where strangely enough we were the only people- we headed to the mud-brick village of Kharanaq. This was by far the highlight of our day. Though I’m sure it’s not for everyone, we just loved “Indiana Jones-ing” in the crumbling, virtually deserted village.
lunch in a caravanseraiKaranaqrooftops that made us feel like we had landed on another planetpomegranates surrounding Kharanaq
palm trees in the desertGarmeh, desert oasis of my dreams
MESR – 2 Days
Because Garmeh was such a big hit, we extended our stay in the desert and headed to another, even more remote desert settlement: Mesr. We drove out with the new friends we’d made in Garmeh and had another remarkable stay in the desert! This time around there was dune bashing at sunset, stargazing, chasing renegade camels and desert sand hikes. Iv’e said it before and I’ll say it again: I love the desert!
sand dunes as far as the eye can seeour guesthouse in the middle of nowhere
ESFAHAN – 2 Days
The grandeur of Esfahan left us standing in awe. This is where you’ll find Iran’s most impressive, majestic architecture. You’ll be surrounded by sharply dressed youths having a good time out, families spending time together in parks and lovers dating somewhat publicly… Esfahan is a modern and vibrant city standing in strong contrast with more conservative places like Yazd.
EsfahanSheikh Lotfollah Mosque, Isfahanfamily day on the river banks
ABYANEH – 1 Day
Since we couldn’t find public transportation to the ancient village of Abyaneh, we hitchhiked there. Catching a ride was quite easy. Most people seem to visit Abyaneh as a day trip from Kashan but we figured we might as well spend the night. Apparently we were the only ones with that idea. Though this village is definitely not a “must-see”, we were thrilled to get a glimpse of a different Iran.
Irregular bus service to Abyanehstreets of AbyanehAll the locals we encountered in Abyaneh were elderly people dressed in a particular style. They looked very different from the people we had seen throughout the rest of the country.
KASHAN – 2 Days
Kashan, another place I was enamoured with. Whether it was due to the -once again- exceptional rooftops, our charming guesthouse, the abundant rose water, the “secret” gardens, the grand traditional houses or the lively bazars, I don’t know. Kashan really got under my skin.
just can’t get enough of these rooftops!farmland hidden inside an old fortress in Kashantraditional house
From Kashan it was a short ride to the end point of our trip: the international airport of Tehran. As you can see, we spent about two days in each destination. Because many of the attractions were closed due to the festivities of Ashura, this was just enough time not to feel rushed. We could have easily spent more time in each of the spots mentioned above and would have loved to visit other parts of the country. That’s why we promised ourselves there would be a next time! But in the end, the beauty of Iran lies, more than its sights or scenery, in its people. So any amount of time spent in the country is enough to at least get a taste of the Persian hospitality.
Here we are again, at the beginning of a new year, wondering where time went. Looking back at the past twelve months, thinking how we could have done things better, what is still missing in our lives and wondering where the next 52 weeks will take us. For me, the past year was one full of challenges, enormous changes and tremendous mental growth.
Though 2015 wasn’t as much of a travel whirlwind as 2013 or 2014, it was an intense travel year to say the least. I moved to Latin America, making it the 5th continent I’ve lived in. I finally revisited the USA and Colombia. Then I moved again, this time back to Ghent, my favourite city on earth. I did it all while growing a tiny human. Kind of absurd, now that I think of it.
This was travel in 2015, the year of big changes…
ECUADOR
Quito
I started the year in Quito with the mission to check out whether or not Ecuador was the country where we’d settle in next. Though Quito lacks impressive tourist attractions, I grew very fond of it. I’m not really sure why, but living in Quito turned out to be quite enjoyable.
photo shoot in the historic centre of Quitoone of the most impressive architectures of Quito: la catherdral.
Baños
The capital of adventure sports in Ecuador. Charming in a touristy way… I wasn’t able to partake in any of the adventure sports due to the pregnancy so I experienced the town differently than I normally would. I’d ask myself: “would the average 75-year-old engage in this activity?” If the answer was positive, that meant a “GO” for me. Good thing that -in my mind- the average 75-year-old would have no problem mountain biking down a narrow wining road alongside massive speeding trucks… *ahum*
Devil’s cauldron reached by mountain bike in Bañosapproved activity
Cuenca
If it wasn’t for a small incident that changed our entire professional plans, I would probably be writing this post from our house in Cuenca. We found the city to be very pleasant and full of business potential. I was willing to oversee the ever fluctuating weather and settle down in the cobble stone city. But as I said, some issues came up which helped us realise Cuenca was not the place for us to live in. At least not in that moment in time.
colonial architecture in Cuencaevery weekend in Ecuador, there seems to be a parade of some sort…
Vilcabamba
Apparently many people live to be 100 years and longer in this small town nestled in what is nicknamed “the valley of longevity”… There seems to be something about the source water and the fresh air that contributes to a long and healthy life. Now this was a gorgeous piece of paradise! Rolling hills, flowers, fruits, birds and butterflies in abundance. A handful of Westerners have set up shop in this town and opened a few yoga and meditation centres, juice bars and organic restaurants. It’s also the place to be for ayahuasca cleansing ceremonies. We were keen to settle down in Vilcabamba but unfortunately the remoteness of the town also meant the internet wasn’t as reliable as it should be for digital nomads. So we were left with no other choice than to leave the little paradise.
our guesthouse in the valley of longevity
Montañita
Or ‘party central’. Cheap cocktails, good surf, tasty street food, loud pounding beats and killer sunsets. I could imagine myself twisting my hair into dreadlocks in front of a reggae shack, ambling barefooted through the sandy streets and partying till sunrise… 10 years ago! That would have pretty much summed up my dream life. Today, I actually had to retain myself not to complain about the loud (party) noise just outside my window at night! Yikes, it’s official, I’m no longer in my 20’s… Montañita helped me realise just how much I’ve grown/changed. And though I did enjoy some elements of it, places like Montañita are just not my scene anymore.
street breakfastthe way a surf beach town should be; quirky and colourfulsunset in Montañita
Puerto Cayo
A tiny dot on the map. We spent most of our time in Ecuador living and working in this sleepy fishing village. When I say sleepy, I mean really sleepy. An interesting experience, one I would never have guessed I’d be living. If you’ve missed it, read about our life in Puerto Cayo.
sleepy Puerto Cayo
Mindo
My favourite spot in Ecuador. We spent most of our time there eating delicious food, admiring colourful hummingbirds, enjoying the lush greenery and gorgeous waterfalls. Catch up on our time in Mindo lindo.
Greener than green in Mindo
Otavalo and surrounding villages
What I like most about Ecuador is its authenticity, especially in the smaller towns and villages. The people, the culture, the widely worn traditional dress; all incredibly different from what I know. The scenery throughout the country is simply stunning and so exceptionally diverse. Otavalo features one of Ecuador’s largest indigenous markets and since it was our last stop before heading home, I did some serious “no restraints”-shopping.
the colours in Ecuador are most vibrantcrater lakes in abundancegetting some local grub in Otavalo
COLOMBIA
Bogotá
A Drupal conference in Colombia lured us into the country. I had been to the Colombian capital before and just like the first time, I wasn’t crazy about Bogotá. La Candelaria, the old part of town, definitely has some charm but the rest of the city is not my cup of tea. To me the best part of being in Bogotá was the reunion with my local friends after 10 years apart. I also loved discovering some of Bogota’s quirks.
in the old centreadmiring the works one of my favourite artists, Botero
Medellín and surroundings
Such a cool and vibrant city! It’s hard to believe what a hot mess it was just 25 years ago. Medellín has really cleaned up well, turning the worst parts of the city into the best! The fantastic free walking tour by “Real City Tours” helped us understand the city and its history. We spent a few weeks in Medellín working, living and discovering the different neighbourhoods. After a hard week at work, we’d visit some of the surrounding villages and attractions.
Botero sculpture in front of the ‘Uribe palace of culture’ in downtown Medellin, the latter designed by a Flemish architectin Guatape, daytrip from Medellin
Salento
A travel dream came true the moment we boarded the bus to Salento. The town itself was quaint but it was the Cocora valley that had been peaking on my travel wish list for a while. The hike was everything I expected it to be and more. I had accidentally left my camera’s charger in Ecuador so I could only take a few pictures. Though I was bummed, this major screw up allowed me to really be in the now and take it all in.
hiking in the marvellous Cocora valleycouldn’t get enough of these views
USA
Atlanta
Though this was just a short jaunt on the way to our next destination, I was delighted to be back in the States after 11 years! I hit up some of my favourite American stores, drank sweet tea and had some doughnuts and fried chicken. I know this sounds incredibly cliché -and it is- but it’s what I was craving every time I thought of the USA. Unfortunately I didn’t have enough time to dig deeper and discover the ins and outs of Atlanta. Maybe next time?
BELGIUM
Ghent
We came back to Belgium to be close to family and friends when the baby would make her appearance. I was waggling to my not so exciting desk job every day and getting ready for her arrival every spare minute I had. So nothing exotic here. Yet I was psyched to be living in Ghent again. I had a blast spending time with said family and friends as well as reconnecting with the city. As I’ve mentioned before in my “announcement post” I’ve often found myself comparing the journey to and through parenthood to a crazy travel adventure. That’s definitely what it has felt like… The craziest adventure so far.
Ghent by nightreunited with friends. Picture by Sofie Luyten
NETHERLANDS
Friesland
If someone had told me a few years ago that I would be going to Friesland at least once every year, I would have never believed it. But that’s exactly what has happened over the past two years and will most likely continue to do so in the future. This visit however, wasn’t so much of a touristy one. We drove all the way to northern Holland to witness the wedding of our great Frisian friends. A long drive worth taking!
cosy winter wedding in the Frisian countryside. Congrats to our dear friends!
So you see, 2015 wasn’t the year of endless destinations but it was full of movement!
So what’s in store for 2016? Well, that’s the favourite part of my life: I don’t know yet! Things will inevitably be different now that there is a kid in the picture but pretty much everything still seems possible. I may not know exactly what 2016 will bring but I can already tell you this much;
Despite having lived in Indonesia for almost 2 years, I haven’t seen much of the islands yet. I will not leave this country again without exploring at least one more island! Additionally, I haven’t gone scuba diving in 3 years and I long to peek at the under water world again. Traveling to Flores would perfectly tick these two boxes. (image)
