Category: Europe

  • Remembering Russia

    Remembering Russia

    With all the negative publicity given to the host of the Winter Olympics these past weeks, I started thinking about my own experiences in Russia a few years ago. The unbelievable “fail” photo’s and comments that sports journalists in Sochi have been tweeting got me “LOL’ing” as well as thinking: “why am I not surprised?!” During my travels through Northern European Russia I’ve encountered similarly bizarre scenes. However, when I call that trip to mind, I remember so much more than kitchens in the bathrooms or getting a fork to stir my tea with, because they ran out of spoons…

    food, Russia
    the restaurant gave me a plastic fork. All the metal ones were used up…

     

    I remember…

     

    A very open and elaborate drinking culture

    Straight off the airport, we were walking down the street trying to find our host’s apartment. Noticing we were tourists, a random man stopped us and begged us to put down our backpacks for a minute so we could have a drink. He pulled out a large can of beer from the left inner pocket of his jacket. From the right inner pocket he pulled out two cups and started serving us. He made a toast and we drank the beer. We had been on Russian soil for no more than 30 minutes and here we were, standing on a side walk, sharing a beer with a stranger. Talk about a warm welcome!

    vodka love, Russia
    vodka love
    drinking, Russia
    anytime, anywhere!

     

    The stunning metro stations

    The metro stations in St-Petersburg and in Moscow are awe-inspiring. We spent a few hours going on and off the metro just to admire the stations. Why don’t all metro halts in the world have ornate chandeliers?

     metro, Russia
    fancy metro hall
    metro, Russia
    metro station

     

    I remember…

     

    The midnight sun

    Traveling past the Arctic Circle in July means it doesn’t really get dark at all. We’d stay up all night and chat with fellow travellers watch the sunset last for hours.

    midnight sun, Russia
    2 am sunshine from the train
     midnight sun, Russia
    never ending sunset in North Russia

     

    The unique and diverse architecture

    You might associate Russian architecture with massive concrete blocks with zero personality. Granted, these Sovjet blocks are predominant in the street scene but there is so much more to Russian architecture. The unique styles left a permanent impression on me.

    St-Petersburg, Russia
    St-Petersburg
    architecture, Russia
    St-Petersburg
    ARCHITECTURE, Russia
    St-Petersburg
    Russian house
    Tver
    ARCHITECTURE, Russia
    Moscow
    ARCHITECTURE, Russia
    Moscow

     

    I remember…

     

    Staying with locals

    We spent most of our nights either on the train or at locals’ houses. Some hosts we found through CouchSurfing, others randomly on the street -such hospitable people! My favourite host, we met and stayed with by chance. He was a man of few words, but when he said something… As you can see from the photograph below, he stayed true to the Russian ‘no smiling in pictures’ rule… Is it because smiling gives you wrinkles? A double chin maybe?

    clearly, I have yet to learn how to "smeyes"
    clearly, I have yet to learn how to “smeyes”

     

    Weird breakfasts in hotels

    The few times we did stay in hotels, we were offered the strangest breakfasts. It was probably due to our careless hotel choices, but every breakfast that was served to us seemed like a cluster of edibles found in the back of the fridge, stacked on a plate. Once we got a chocolate bar for breakfast…

    weird breakfast, Russia
    tiny slice of bread, leftover cumcumber, chocolate covered twinkies, eggs, a large chunk of butter and ham.

     

    I remember…

     

    The Russian delicacies

    I was on such an extremely tight budget, I didn’t get to sample much of the staples but I did have the opportunity to try some fine vodka and caviar. Two items I wasn’t fond of before the trip. I realised I probably disliked these because so far I had only tasted a ‘crap quality’ version of them! Also delicious, borscht (beet-cabbage-soup), Pelmeni (the Russian answer to ravioli), blini (Russian pancakes) and the chocolate, which is a big deal for a Belgian to admit.

    exquisite vodka, Russia
    exquisite vodka
    caviar, Russia
    caviar

     

    The old school countryside… On the Solovetsky islands

    Picking wild flower from a meadow, wooden cabins, washing our faces in a babbling creek, eating berries all day long, lying in the long grass spotting shapes in the clouds… The Russian country life brings a sense of carefree childhood. It’s probably one of the most cliché descriptions but it really does feel like traveling back in time. There were hardly any cars or telephones, women were washing laundry by hand, kids were running around laughing. It seemed so far away from modern reality, well, the Solovetsky islands are literally far from the modern world.

    Solovetsky, Russia
    Solovetsky islands
    wooden cabin, Russia
    wooden cabin 
    fresh strawberries sold on the side of the road
    fresh strawberries sold on the side of the road
    sauna toilet, Russia
    sauna toilet 
    picking wild flowers, Russia
    picking wild flowers

     

    Unfortunately the bad reputation Russia is making for itself is not just about poor accommodation in the olympic village. It’s about corruption, homophobia, violence… Yet, traveling around Russia was one of the most exciting journeys I’ve done so far. I could hardly read the signs and nobody spoke a word of English in most of the places we visited, but somehow we managed to communicate and get along very well despite the fact that I am an obviously foreign-looking woman. This brings me hope that someday- sooner rather than later- Russia will grow to be a more open-minded and tolerant nation.

    Have you ever been to Russia? Would you consider going? 

    The post “Remembering Russia” first appeared on Travel Cake.

     

  • Cappadocia on a Budget

    Cappadocia on a Budget

    Desperately needing to spend some time in nature and to get a dose of exoticism, I set off to Turkey. My budget was rather tight, but according to my research, I wouldn’t be needing much spending money in Turkey’s easternmost province, near the border with Iran. Perfect, I thought…

    As I arrived in Istanbul, I found out that unfortunately, recent political turmoil had turned the area I wanted to visit into a temporary ‘no-go zone’. I seriously considered persevering my trip despite the issues, but the travel agent almost refused to sell me a bus ticket and insisted I change plans. Eventually, the flexible and sensible traveller in me arose and I decided to go to Cappadocia instead.

    Cappadocia, historical region in central Turkey
    Cappadocia, historical region in central Turkey

     

    Cappadocia being one of the most popular areas in Turkey, I knew it would be trickier with my small budget. Since I managed to stay within budget, I thought I’d share some of the tricks that could allow you to have a cheap Cappadocia trip.

    1. The classic: take the overnight bus to get there

    Obviously, it saves you a night at the hotel. Taking the long distance bus from Istanbul to Göreme, the “hub” in Cappadocia, is like flying business class. Think wide reclinable seats with lots of leg space, a complementary blanket and a personal screen displaying movies- in Turkish. During the ride, a “bus attendant” strides through the vehicle’s aisle serving drinks/snacks and makes sure the bus is always tidy. The downside: there’s a toilet/smoke break every hour or so and all lights are turned on at each stop. So, maybe not the best night of sleep.

    2. Walk to enjoy the magical landscapes

    There are plenty of tours designed to show you the area, but honestly, you can do without. Just pick up a map and start walking. One of the tours might be worth paying for (the Green Tour) as the attractions are spread out over a large area. However, taking this tour reminded me how much I hate group tours. Important: if you don’t take any kind of tour, make sure you read up on the history of the area. It’s fascinating!

    easy to find your way
    easy to find your way
    the love valley
    the love valley
    visiting preserved church murals with green tour
    visiting 11th century murals with green tour

     

    3. Hitchhike

    You might be discouraged to go for a long walk because that would also mean a long hike back to town. However, people in the area are generally open to hitchhikers and chances are you’ll get picked up by the first car/truck with an open seat.

    waiting for a ride...
    waiting for a ride…

     

    4. Lodge in a cave

    Not only is it part of the whole Cappadocia experience, it can also be very affordable. Many of the cave houses have been transformed into home stays and pensions. You can easily find an inexpensive dorm room (+- €7, at the time of writing) in a cave hotel with swimming pool. Most of these places additionally offer a generous breakfast buffet, leaving you full until the afternoon.

    unusual place to stay
    feeling like the Flinstones
    not bad for a hostel...
    not bad for a hostel…

     

    5. It’s OK to skip the hot air balloon flight

    It seems as though every single visitor to the region embarks in a hot air balloon during their visits… “an essential Cappadocia experience”. Admittedly, it’s probably gorgeous, memorable and what not. But with prices starting at €120 for a one hour flight in a crammed basket, the budget traveller starts to doubt… That’s food for a week! A great alternative is to wake up at dawn and watch the balloons float through the morning sky. Dozens of balloons amongst the fairy chimneys. Stunning! At no point did I wish to be inside a balloon… This view was just perfect -and free.

    the town at dawn
    the town at dawn
    sunrise, hot air balloons and a new friend...priceless
    sunrise, hot air balloons and a new friend…priceless

     

    6. Cappadocian wine tasting

    Wait, what is wine tasting doing on a “budget tip” list? First of all because… Turkish wine? Who knew?! That’s just an exciting must-try! Regardless of your budget. Second, a glass of Cappadocian wine is moderately priced and -in my humble opinion- not that great (yet?), so you’re not likely to go for seconds. Still worth a taste!

    wine tasting along the way
    wine tasting along the way

     

    7. Skip the Hammam

    The Hammam in Göreme is pricey. Unless that’s where you want to splurge, I suggest you hold that experience for a larger city in Turkey.

    8. Relax and Enjoy the silence 

    Although you’re in a touristy area, it’s still a quiet environment. Order a pot of tea and do some people watching or read that book you’ve been carrying around… Savour the peace and quite while soaking in the surroundings. This is probably my favourite thing about traveling on a budget: the monetary restrictions force you to spend at least one day not spending and consuming but slowing down and enjoying the beautiful, small things in this world.

    TEA ON A TERRACE
    customary tulip tea glass
    in silence
    in silence

     

    9. Donate a strand of hair to win a trip back to Cappadocia

    There is a tiny ‘hair museum’ in the town of Avanos. It’s basically a cave with over 16.000 hair strands hanging from the walls and ceiling. Female visitors from all over the world donate a lock of hair to which their names and address is adhered. Twice a year, Mr. Galip, potter and owner of the museum, picks a lucky winner to return to Cappadocia and learn the art of pottery, all expenses paid. He has not mailed me yet. Entrance to the museum is free.

    walls of hair
    walls of hair (photo credits)

     

    Have you been to Cappadocia? 

    The post “Cappadocia on a budget” first appeared on Travel Cake.

     

  • 2013 Travel Summary

    2013 Travel Summary

    2013 flew by so fast, I hardly saw the months pass by. In terms of travel, this year was insane! I moved from Europe to Asia and wound up in a place that “forces” me to leave the country and travel at least every two months. Not the worst deal, right?

     

    Here is part I of my 2013 travel summary:

    JANUARY… Belgium

    I started 2013 in my favourite city of all times: Ghent, living and working in the city centre. It was an extremely busy month but an exciting one with lots quality time with friends and family.

    gent
    frozen city centre

    I conquered one of my biggest (irrational) fears: driving. It was a real challenge for me especially since the lessons took place at night, in the snow! Learning to drive has been on the top of my resolutions list for years. I finally pulled through.

     

    FEBRUARY… Poland

    I took a short trip to Warsaw with one of my best friends. Poland during the winter is no joke, but the snow embellished the city. We had a great time learning all about the Polish vodka drinking etiquette. I had my first experience as a journalist at a Polish radio station and enjoyed a fab jazz concert.

    Warsaw's old town square
    >Warsaw’s old town square
    at Trojia Polskie radio
    at Trojka Polskie radio

    Exactly 3 years earlier, a British girl hitchhiked from London to Berlin and stopped in Ghent on her way there. We met, we hit it off, we became friends and she continued her journey to Berlin. On her way back to London, she passed through Ghent again and stayed with me for a couple of days. Ever since, she has moved to Australia and we never saw each other again. Until… we bumped into each other on Warsaw’s main square. Magical! We spent the little time we had, catching up over food and coffee!

    reunited
    reunited

     

    MARCH… Oman, UAE, Bankok

    I exchanged the everlasting cold temperatures of Europe for the Eastern heat. My voyage started in Oman. A country I had been drawn to for years. When I finally set foot in it, I fell in love head over heels. Oman was everything I hoped it would be and more. I stayed with an awesome woman who introduced me to Omani culture. We partied, gossiped, walked around Muscat, bonded over huge plates of traditional Omani food. During my little road trip I discovered the country’s wonderful and hospitable people, the ancient culture and the stunning nature… I loved it all.

    muscat malecon
    Muscat’s corniche
    digging in
    digging in

     

    United Arab Emirates

    After Oman, I made a stop in the United Arab Emirates. Mainly to visit a friend who had just emigrated there. She showed me around the glam of Dubai. I was expecting it to dislike it, but Dubai surprised me. I enjoyed the fancy cocktails and the high class lunches. I loved the sense of safety and the well dressed tourists. Even though I have strong reservations about energy wasting in he UAE and the whole “bigger is better” attitude, one can’t deny it is a unique place on earth, showcasing human ingenuity. If only they could use that ingenuity in an environmental friendly and fair trade kind of way…

    dubai
    Burj Khalifa, tallest building in the world

    Bangkok

    When my time in Dubai was up, I made way to Bangkok. Again, just a brief encounter which was just long enough to allow me to get a feel of the city. I stayed in a fantastic boutique hostel that blew my mind. Refill Now! is probably the most stylish and clean hostel I’ve ever stayed in. I met some kick-ass ladies whom I explored the city with. I haven’t quite made up my mind about whether or not I like Bangkok. I guess I’ll have to go back to decide.

    Refill Now! hostel
    pool at Refill Now! hostel
    Bangkok by night
    Bangkok by night

     

    APRIL… Myanmar

    I spent three weeks in Myanmar discovering a country that only recently opened its doors to the rest of the world. It’s without a doubt a fascinating country, untouched in so many ways, but I didn’t LOVE the place. I don’t think it has anything to do with me getting a Buddha overdose, but there was just something that didn’t agree with me. Was it the fact that it was so hot you couldn’t move during the day? Or that the food wasn’t all that? Or was it the fact that I longed to stop traveling and settle down for a while? Or yet again, was I too bothered by the current regime? Either way Myanmar and I just didn’t click. I’m not sure why, I never really understood. All I know is; I won’t be going back any time soon.

    Bagan
    beautiful Bagan
    transformed into a Burmese lady
    transformed into a Burmese lady

     

    MAY… Malaysia-Singapore

    In may, I finally got to store away my luggage for a while. Douglas and I settled down in Kuala Lumpur. The stability only lasted a short time as we moved from KL to Georgetown, Penang. Neither cities was the kind of environment we wanted to live in, so we decided to leave mainland Malaysia behind.

    Kuala Lumpur
    view from our window in Kuala Lumpur
    egg oyster
    getting stuffed in George town
    George town by night
    Penang by night

     

    Singapore

    Later that month I revisited Singapore and just like during my first encounter 5 years ago, I loved the country/city. Yes, it’s freakishly clean, strict and (too?) organised, but it’s awesome! It’s an especially welcome break after the chaos of Kuala Lumpur. The food is amazing and I love how three very different ethnicities live together, side by side. If the rent in Singapore wasn’t so damn high, that’s where we’d be living right now.

    mosque in Arab quarter, singapore
    mosque in Arab quarter
    Little India, singapore
    colourful facades of Little India
    China town, singapore
    China town
    Laksa soup
    Laksa

     

    JUNE…Bali

    Aaah, Bali… I found it just as beautiful as when I left it behind 5 years ago. It has changed a lot, but the essence is still present. The smells of frangipani and incense, the sounds of gamelan, the bright green rice fields… We found Ubud the perfect place to spend a few month living and working remotely. So we moved and started a new life on the islands of the gods.

    vanilla pods, Bali
    vanilla pods drying in the Balinese sun
    Balinese gateways
    Balinese gateway

    Stay tuned for part II of the year!

     

  • Warsaw is not that boring…

    Warsaw is not that boring…

    “Warsaw? Why are you going to Warsaw? It’s so boring! Go to Krakow instead!”

    According to a large poll by Trip Advisor conducted in 2008, Warsaw is the third most boring city in Europe, Brussels being first. I refused to listen to the opinion of connoisseurs and booked a €20 return flight to Warsaw, Poland. I hoped to get sunny winter days, but my friend and I were in for heavy snow and temperatures dropping to -7 °C. Yikes, not the best city trip conditions. We packed our best winter attires and took off.

    cold warsaw
    cold and gloomy

     

    The city surprised me with its young and dynamic atmosphere. This is a city on the rise! There are plenty of quaint bars, restaurants and shops. The food is delicious: well seasoned and hearty. And here I was thinking I’d be eating bland boiled potatoes, cabbage and fatty sausage -aah, the clichés.

    Polish treats
    plate of delicious Polish treats

     

    Krakow may very well be more exciting, but Warsaw wasn’t boring. Although we did wonder a few times where everyone was; the main shopping street being dead quiet on a Saturday afternoon. I blame the freezing temperatures.

    We took the “orange umbrella” free walking tour through the city. That’s where we learned all about Warsaw’s interesting history. How it was completely devastated during WWII and how architects used paintings and old photo’s to reconstruct the old city centre. I suppose you know you’ve become an adult when stories which used to put you asleep in your high school history class, suddenly sound so fascinating.

    the old town warsaw
    the old town
    colourful reconstructed facades
    colourful reconstructed facades

     

    As captivating as the tour was, the last 15 minutes were unbearable. The cold was taking its toll. Our hands and feet were completely numbed so we there was “obviously no other choice” than to stop at a bar to warm up. “Vodka will do the trick”, our spirited guide promised… It did. Vodka at 1 pm? In Poland, that’s OK.

    vodka at 1 pm in Karmink
    vodka at 1 pm in Karmnik

     

    We spent the remainder of the day, meandering the streets of the city centre, taking enough breaks in hip coffee shops to keep warm. 

    meandering
    meandering
    tea time
    tea time

     

    We visited the well known “Uprising Museum” which I strongly recommend, especially if you could use a history brush up. It’s such a wonderful source of information and illustration. I was particularly touched by the old video fragments showing some of the war atrocities in loops. The museum is packed with interactive displays, photographs, video footage, artefacts… So don’t make the same mistake we did: do come more than 40 minutes before closing time! Entrance is free on Sundays!

    Warsaw

    We stayed with a fun-loving Varsovian who, one evening, introduced us to the world of Polish vodka. We headed to one of the cheapest bars in town for a lesson in “vodka drinking etiquette”. These are the lessons I somehow managed to remember very clearly:

    Lesson 1: never drink vodka alone, it’s supposed to be a social thing

    Lesson 2: never refuse a drink unless you’re pregnant or on antibiotics

    Lesson 3: preferably drink in public

    Lesson 4: only drink your vodka straight. Diluted versions and cocktails are for losers. Flavoured vodka is OK.

    flavored vodka
    flavoured vodka

     

    Lesson 5: the vodka has to be drunk in one gulp, no matter how big the glass is (usually it’s 50 ml though)

    Lesson 6: make a toast before you drink. “Na zdrowie” [nazdrovje], meaning health, will do just fine.

    bottoms up!
    bottoms up!

     

    Lesson 7: drinks are immediately refilled

    Lesson 8: eat Polish snacks in between the shots

    raw minced meat and egg
    raw minced meat and egg
    perfect drinking snack
    perfect drinking snack

     

    Lesson 9: -one I had to learn on my own- unless you’re Russian, don’t to try to keep up with a Pole

     

    One thing I liked about this destination for a city trip, is the fact that there is no pressure of big highlights you must see in  just a few days. This leaves you time to get the feel of the city and spend some quality time with your travel mate.

    Four days spent in Warsaw, not one moment of slight boredom. It might not be the most exciting capital to live in, but it’s definitely a pleasant and fun city to visit.

    IMG_2196

     

    Have you been to Warsaw? Did you find it boring? Have you been surprised by a place recently?

    The post “Warsaw is not that boring…” first appeared on Travel Cake.

     

  • New Year’s Eve abroad: Hogmanay Street party, Edinburgh

    New Year’s Eve abroad: Hogmanay Street party, Edinburgh

    As the end of the year approaches, that question starts popping up again… “So… What are you doing on New Years’s Eve?” Then start the discussions, the dilemma’s and the decision making process.

    Two years ago, a few of my friends and I decided to welcome the new year abroad. Instead of spending our money on brand new flashy party outfits and tickets to some overpriced party, we booked cheap flights to Scotland. That year we celebrated by joining the Hogmanay street party in Edinburgh.

    A very wise decision as Hogmanay, turned out to be an incredible way to start off the new year with a BANG! Literally… I don’t know how many tonnes of fireworks were rocketed to the sky, but I’d definitely had my dose of fireworks for the following 2 years!

    All through the night, the streets of Edinburgh were filled with laughter, singing, skipping, drinking, dancing, eating, twirling, hugging…

     

    So what exactly goes on during Hogmanay in Edinburgh?

    There are many street concerts entertaining the crowds. Dance, sing along, make friends… Do as you please. The entire event takes place outdoors, in the city centre, so you’re are free to roam around or move from one performance to the next, keeping in mind that there are around 80 000 attendees to navigate through.

    ...people... lots of them
    …people… and lots of them

     

     As the night progresses, the mass grows, the streets fill up and the atmosphere heats up. When midnight approaches; the bands stop playing and the crowd flocks toward the main square.

    Countdown begins!

    At 00:00, impressive fireworks light up the sky. The Scots then proudly sign “Auld lang syne”. Tens of thousands of people sing (more or less) simultaneously… Heart warming! Hugs, kisses and best wishes are exchanged between friends and random by-standers, it’s magical!

    fireworks and camera's, edinburgh
    fireworks and camera’s

     

    After the remarkable moment, a couple of dj’s play some tunes and you can dance on the square. Once the music dies down, a challenge awaits; getting off the square! As all the participants try to leave at the same time, you can imagine there is a lot of pushing and shoving. All you can do is go with the flow and let it happen.

     fireworks, new year's eve
    so many fireworks you don’t know which side to look

     

    That can be the end of the evening or you can step into one of the bars to continue the party.  

    "Sin", a club/bar in a church
    “Sin”, a club/bar in a church

     

    Some tips for an awesome Hogmanay street party

    Protect yourself against the cold weather the best you can. As I’ve mentioned earlier, the event is outdoors and, well, it’s winter! Be prepared for rain as well!

    Most people bring their own drinks in plastic bottles. It’s too hard to get a drink from a bar or a stand when you’re gathered before and after the countdown. It will save you a lot of trouble and a few pennies. 

    faux fur, home mixed drinks and plastic cups
    faux fur, home mixed drinks and plastic cups

     

    – If you hate the masses and drunk people, you might want to reconsider Hogmanay… OR challenge yourself to try it anyway!

    It’s well worth staying a few extra days to explore the city. Edinburgh is a beautiful gothic city with a strong personality. There is much to see, to do and to taste!

    haggis
    haggis
    Scotch Whisky tasting
    Scotch Whisky tasting

    – There are plenty of other activities going on around New Year’s Eve. You can participate in a torchlit procession through town or ride the ferris wheel. Let your inner child go nuts in the ‘winter wonderland’ attractions. For the real daredevils, why not start the new year fresh by taking a splash in the river -for charity. Find out more about Hogmanay and the other events here

    – If you’re on a budget, you’ll find lots of cheap food in town, admittedly not the most healthy food, but hey, you’re on holiday… I’d also recommend you stay as far away from the shops as you possibly can! There are sales during this period and you could easily be tempted!

     

    Spending New Year’s Eve in Edinburgh, was an unforgettable experience. I’d do it again in a heartbeat! Not only is the event well organised, but the Scots are warm, welcoming and know how to throw a party! 

     

    Have you already made plans for New Year’s Eve? 

    The post “New Year’s Eve abroad: Hogmanay Street party, Edinburgh” first appeared on Travel Cake.

     

  • How to spend the weekend in Budapest (when you’ve already done the sightseeing)

    How to spend the weekend in Budapest (when you’ve already done the sightseeing)

    You’re in Budapest and you’ve already seen the main tourist attractions or you’re not really in the mood to do so. It happens sometimes… and that’s ok! Especially in Budapest where there are plenty of ways to usefully spend your time in ways that will not leave you feeling like a lousy traveller. So how do you still soak in some culture and history?

     

    Walk by the ‘shoes on the Danube promenade’

    In Pest, on the banks of the Danube,  there is an interesting memorial in honour of the Jewish people who were killed in Budapest during WWII. They were ordered to remove their shoes and were shot at the edge of the water so that their bodies would fall into the river and were carried away. I found this a moving piece of art, well worth a detour.

    shoes monument danube
    shoes on the danube promenade

     

    Cure yourself at the Thermal Baths

    Treat yourself to a soothing and possibly therapeutic afternoon at one of the 15 public thermal baths of Budapest. The city’s has been famous for its medicinal thermal springs since the Roman Empire (more on that here). Till this day, the inhabitants of the Budapest use these bath-complexes to heal, relax and spend some quality time with friends, family and fellow chess players.

     playing chess, budapest
    locals playing chess

    Some of the bath complexes date back to the 16th– 17th century. Pick your favourite for some R&R in the hot water pools, cold water pools, saunas… Most complexes even offer massages. I spent a snowy afternoon in the Széchenyi bath, one of the largest spa complexes in Europe. Switching from one 39C° bath to the next was quite challenging, with an outside temperature of -5°C. The contrast of the natural hot water and the freezing air made the experience truly memorable. I mean, how often does one get to bathe in the snow?! It’s good for the blood circulation, they say. Of course you can choose to bathe indoors too! 

    budapest
    warming up on a grey day

     

    Have afternoon tea at a historical Café

    There are several renowned cafés which have been around for decades. The most famous and popular ones being “Gerbaud’s” and “Ruszwurm”. Be warned, the prices are quite steep, but in return you get a slice of pastry that has been perfected over the course of 80 years or more. Order a coffee or hot chocolate if you don’t have the means to indulge in afternoon tea! Sit back, enjoy whatever you can afford and let yourself get transported to the late 19th century. 

    €8 hot chocolate
    €8 hot chocolate

     

    Sunset at the Parliament

    “More beautiful from the outside than from the inside”; normally a phrase that evokes negative feelings. Not in this case though. The Hungarian Parliament may well be the most photographed building of Budapest. Its architectural beauty is best admired from across the river. Bring drinks/snacks and marvel at this architectural beauty as it changes hues with the setting of the sun. Be warned, you’ll be sitting near a busy motorway, so don’t expect peace and quiet.

    budapest parilament
    sunset on the parilament
    dusk on the parliament budapest
    dusk on the parliament

     

    Shop for paprikas and souvenirs at the Central Market Hall

    As a huge fan of markets, I had a wonderful time snooping around the central market of Budapest. There is nothing like getting lost in the numerous aisles of produce, cured meats, cheeses, spices, pastry, and endless supplies of paprika. It’s a great way to taste and learn about traditional Hungarian cuisine at its freshest. On the second level, you can browse through hundreds of crafts and tacky souvenirs.

    central market hall, budapest
    central market hall
    budapest
    table deco
    meats market budpest
    meats

     

    Have a couple of drinks at one of the many ruin bars

    A ruin bar or a kert is a temporary bar set up in a deserted building or factory. Sort of an underground pop-up bar, if you will. Some last only through the summer while others stay in business for several years. They are equipped with an eclectic mix of rejected and recycled furniture, works of local artists, graffiti… They have a certain edginess which makes them so popular with locals and tourists alike. Some of the bars serve cheap pizza during a couple of hours a night, others offer carrots with your drinks… “Why not eat a healthy snack with your beer”, the waitress said. TOUCHÉ!

     “Szimpla kert” is one of the most famous and well renowned kerts. Up to date information on all the kerts in Budapest can be found here

    healthy beer snack
     szimpla kerts
    one of the rooms at szimpla
     Szimpla kertz, budapest
    drinks in a bathtub

     

    Pizza at Marxim

    Ever wonder what it was like to be a part of ‘the resistance’ during communist times? Ever wanted to feel that underground vibe? Well, you can! Marxim is a pizza restaurant/bar on the Buda side of town where you can -more or less- relive those days. How about a “pizza à la Stalingradsokje” or a “Red October pizza”? Why not even try a “Papa Marx’ favourite”? The décor is entirely communist themed and with a little bit of imagination; you’d think you were tele-transported back in time. Although, I doubt they had pizza back then.

    booths separated by chicken gauze
    booths separated by chicken gauze and barbed wire
    making revolution plans
    making revolution plans

     

    Hang out at Fisherman’s Bastion

    Yes, this is part of the classic attractions in Budapest, but it’s such a beautiful and fun place, it deserves a hangout visit! Ideal for a romantic rendez-vous, playing hide and seek, a photo shoot or a walk around the oh-so-quaint neighbourhood. Bring a scarf, hat and gloves on cold days, the wind up there is brutal. 

    view from my hiding spot
    view from my hiding spot
    romance, fisherman's bastion, Budapest
    romance at fisherman’s bastion

     

    Spa-rty at one of the oldest thermal baths

    If you’re into the party scene, this will probably be a highlight for you. Cinetrip organises audio-visual parties in unique locations i.e the thermal baths. Party in a 200year-old turkish bath surrounded by lasers, smoke and international dj’s… It’s no surprise these parties are rapidly gaining popularity. Not my cup of tea (anymore?), but not to be missed for those of you who want to give aqua-twerking a go!

    sparty time
    sparty time

     

    Discover the Hungarian cuisine and wines

    While it’s not an internationally renowned cuisine, hungarian staples are quite tasty. I was surprised at their ability to turn something as simple as fried mushrooms with rice into a scrumptious dish. The food is very flavourful and hearty; weight loss is not a probability here. Spend some time looking for restaurants serving authentic dishes or take on of the widely available cooking class. Try goulash soup, chicken paprika and stuffed savoury crêpes. The sweet pastries are divine and much cheaper than in France. I found the cherry strudel to be particularly tasty.

    caviar tartines, goulash soup, pastry galore, mushrooms and rice
    caviar tartines, goulash soup, pastry galore, mushrooms and rice
    cherry strudel
    cherry strudel

    Have you been to Budapest? Have you done any of these activities while there?

    The post “How to spend the weekend in Budapest (when you’ve already done the sightseeing)” first appeared on Travel Cake.

  • How to spend a €50 weekend in Copenhagen

    How to spend a €50 weekend in Copenhagen

    I had been dreaming of going to Copehagen for such a long time, it was almost becoming an obsession. However, as we all know, Scandinavia can get quite pricey for us, outsiders. I had some time to spare but no cash to spend. Yet it had become an urge I just couldn’t resist any longer.  So I talked to one of my most adventurous and spontaneous friends, K. We put our creative minds together and came up with an idea: Let’s have a fab long weekend in Copenhagen spending only €50.  

    Challenge accepted!  

    We managed to do a 4 day getaway from Belgium to Denmark spending no more than €50 each, all costs included. The good time was an added bonus. Here’s our methode…  

    How to spend a fabulous weekend in Copenhagen armed with only  €50 and a smile

    # 1 Hitchhike

    Neither of us had done it before so we were a little nervous at first. Would we manage to get rides? – I mean after all, we are two little brown girls… What if a creepy looking person stops to pick you up… How do you refuse the ride? “sorry, you look like a rapist, I respectfully refuse your help”… Luckily, we’ve never had to deal with either situation and we quickly realised that when two girls hitchhike, they always catch a ride. The waiting time was so ridiculously short with an average wait of  1-3 minutes!

    HITCHHIKE
    hitch hike

    # 2 Bring along leftovers from your pantry

    To reduce costs we brought along some leftovers found in our pantries: a pack of waffles, a couple of dried sausages, 1bag of pasta, 1 bottle of wine, 1 can of Frankfurters, 1 bag of soft sandwiches and couple of tea bags. Perfect for breakfast, lunch or snacks.

    BREAKFAST OF CHAMPIONS
    breakfast of champions

    # 3 Get a ride from Suriname students that offers you a free McDonalds lunch

    Some of the people that picked us up were so generous. Going out of their way for us, sharing their food, giving us useful things they had lying in their cars like bottles of booze and an umbrella… Others had interesting stories to tell, like the CEO who traveled around the globe and was bored of the classy 5-star hotels or the polish millionaire that had a semi-dodgy car businesses. The 65 year old truck driver who was madly in love with his wife of 40-something years or the three Suriname students who thought we were insane for hitchhiking and ended up buying us a meal at McDonalds. Each and every one of the drivers asked us the same question: “Isn’t this dangerous?”  to which we would reply: “that will depend on you…”

    PEOPLE ON THE WAY
    people on the way

    # 4 Use cardboard from in the trash to make your signs

    MAKING SIGNS AS WE GO
    making signs as we go

    # 5 Use your puppy eyes to catch that ride

    PLEASE
    PLEASE

    #6 To avoid rides from scary, dangerous men, always put on your “street face”.

    'SUP...
    ‘SUP…

    # 7 Pyjama party at a local friend’s place

    Once in Copenhagen  we were welcomed into the home of a friend I had met two summers earlier. At that time she spent a week at my place so she was happy to return the favour and let us crash on her floor for a couple of nights. She was so kind to spoil us with a nice dinner when we arrived and a delicious breakfast in the morning. If you don’t have a local friend I suggest looking for a host/friend on Couchsurfing, hospitality club or BeWelcome.

    BREAKFAST WITH SOFIE
    breakfast with Sofie

    # 8 Get your hands on a free city bike to cruise around the city

    The free city bicycles of Copenhagen are so popular that they are not very easy to find, but if you look carefully enough you’ll be able to pick one up and leave it behind at one of the many bicycle stations around the city. No complicated ‘credit card registration-type’ arrangements here, you just slip a 20Kr coin into the slot and it unlocks your bicycle. Your coin is returned to you as soon as you park your bike in the foreseen slot. EASY!

    FREE BICYCLE
    free bicycle

    # 9 explore the city by foot

    Walking around town is always free. There are so much interesting architecture around the city that you don’t necessarily need to go inside any museums and palaces to soak in some of the culture and architectural beauty.

    AROUND TOWN
    around town

    # 10 Ignore the morning flea markets

    We started browsing saying “we’re not going to buy anything!!”. Guess how that ended… But if you really can’t help yourself… You can really get a good deal at these markets. Bangkok prices! Alternatively do some window shopping.

    FLEA MARKET
    flea market

    # 11 Visit free art expositions

    ART EXPO
    art expo

    # 12 Stumble upon a free (coffee) festival

    There is so much going on in the city during the summer time, that you are bound to find some kind of (free) gathering. This mini festival had great artists performing and free coffee samples. We spent a couple of hours listening to Danish-Zanzibari hip hop drinking as many caffeine sample shots we could stomach. A perfect afternoon activity if you ask me.

    COFFEE FESTIVAL
    coffee festival

    # 13 Have dinner at ‘Morgenstedet’

    It’s an amazing vegetarian restaurant in Christiana where you can share the huge portions with your buddy. The food they serve is made from fresh and organically grown vegetables. Check out this half portion…

    HALF BURRITO
    half burrito

     

    # 14 People watch in Nyhavn

    Or anywhere else by the water. Get yourself a bottle of cheap wine from the supermarket and perhaps a bag of mixed nuts. Sit back, relax and enjoy the view and the company.

     

    NYHAVN
    NYHAVN
    CHILLAXING BY THE WATER
    chillaxing by the water

     

    And so we concluded our trip with a long hitchhiking day back to Belgium which we managed to do in one day. Although I don’t advise doing this many kilometres at once. It’s extremely exhausting; smiling to catch rides, chatting with the driver during hours, explaining who you are and what your trip is about every time you get in a car…

    LAST LEG OF THE TRIP IN A TRUCK. YES THAT'S A BED.
    last leg of the trip in a truck. Yes, that’s a bed.

    To remember: getting stuck on the road is part of the trip! Enjoy it! 

     BEING STUCK AND PLAYING AROUND
    being stuck and playing around

     

    Have you ever hitchhiked? Would you consider it?

    The post “How to spend a €50 weekend in Copenhagen” first appeared on Travel Cake. 

  • 10 Things I loved about Istanbul

    10 Things I loved about Istanbul

    There were more than 10 things I loved about Istanbul, but I’ve made a list of the most obvious and memorable reasons.

    1. The Markets and Bazaars

    Visiting markets are by default my favorite thing to do while I’m travelling. It’s where you can get a feel of what local life is all about. It’s the place you are most likely to be overwhelmed with curious smells, a mix of colours,foreign sounds, unfamiliar tastes, big smiles, sharp selling techniques… I hardly ever head to the market to shop, but to more to experience a new city. The markets and bazaars in Istanbul were no different. Although I did end up buying some local delights after sampling some tea’s, sweets, honey, cheeses and herbs.

     

    FISH MARKET
    fish market
    LAMPS AT THE BAZAR
    lamps at the bazar
    SPICE BAZAR
    the Grand Bazar
    SPICE BAZAR
    Spice Bazar

     

     

    2. The Street food + vendors

    The street food I found in Istanbul was nothing I’d never seen before (except the stuffed mussels, yummy!), yet there is something very appealing about getting your food off the streets. It’s always very affordable and the vendors in Istanbul seemed to have a great time selling a show along with their product. Whether it’s your grilled sardine being thrown onto your sandwich bun from 5 meters away, or it’s the sweet nothings the vendor whispers into your ear as you reach for your döner, there is nothing ordinary about ordering a portion of street food in Istanbul. Try getting a “dondurma” (chewy Turkish ice cream), you’ll certainly get a complementary show.

    KEBAB
    kebab
    GETTING A DONDURMA
    getting a dondurma

     

     

    3. The views from and around the Bosporus

    The river flowing through the city forms the backdrop for a romantic scene. Lovers, fishermen, kids playing, families on their outing, teenagers killing time… There is life around the Bosporus, that’s certain.

    ROMANCE  bosporus
    romance
    SUNSET BY THE RIVER
    sunset by the river
    VIEW FROM THE BOSPORUS
    view from the Bosporus

     

    4. The hip boutiques in Karaköy, Beyoğlu

    Even though these shops where not within my budget range, I had such a good time window shopping and browsing the “sales-racks”  hoping to find a steal. I often said to myself: “I’ll come back when I have more money!” The best shops, offering unique pieces by young designers, are off the main roads and near the Galata tower. Prices here are similar to those in western Europe.

    BOUTIQUES
    boutiques

     

     

    5. Fresh juice any time of the day

    Apple, carrot, pomegranate, raisin, orange, lemon, strawberry, melon, pineapple, peach… All the fruity flavours you can imagine, whenever you want, for a very sharp price. Hello vitamins!

     

    FRESH JUICE
    fresh juice

     

    6. The old town

    You could spend a whole week (or more) discovering this area, in fact, many tourist never make it to the other parts of town. I didn’t visit all the mosques and museums, nor did I walk all over the old town with a tour guide, so I missed out on the thousands of  historical tales and explanations on the city. However, I managed to arrive at the sites before all the other tourist did which allowed me to get a real feel of that part of town… There is such serenity and spirituality in the air. At the crack of dawn, that is…

    INSIDE THE MOSQUE
    inside the mosque
    BY THE MOSQUE
    by the mosque
    BLUE MOSQUE AT DAWN
    blue mosque at dawn

    7. The street art

    ..

    MURAL
    comic mural
    MURAL
    mural

     

    8. Shops selling the most random things

    It makes the city all the more interesting. How often do you see a shop entirely dedicated to growing and selling medicinal leeches? (you place them on your body when you’re ill and they suck out the infested blood…)

    BB GUNS
    BB guns
    OLD PERSONAL PHOTOS FOR SALE
    old personal photos for sale

     

    9. Tea time break

    I think I probably had a tea break every hour, two hours max. Just sitting along the road side or a terrace in the shade with a glass of hot tea and a book, watching people get on with their lives. Just wonderful!

    TEA ON A TERRACE
    tea on a terrace
    TEA AND CIGARETTES
    tea and cigarettes

    10. The surprises

    I was often surprised in Istanbul. Small surprises and bigger ones. I don’t want to give away any spoilers, but these are just some of  the unexpected elements . Visit Istanbul to discover which surprises the city has in store for you.

    STREET PERFORMANCE
    heart warming street performance
    MOVIE SCENE
    movie scene
    CHURCH IN THE MIDDLE OF TOWN
    catholic church in the middle of town

     

    Have you ever been to Istanbul? What was your favourite thing?

     The post “10 Things I loved about Istanbul” first appeared on Travel Cake.