Category: Category

12 Favourite Destinations

It’s been exactly 10 years today since my first independent trip. By “independent” I mean a trip not organised or sponsored by parents, school or other organisations… I started traveling on my own dime in my own time.

I was 19 when a friend and I booked a ticket to Zimbabwe, a country we knew almost nothing about. Feeling all kinds of cool, we embarked on an adventure that would shape the people we’d become. We spent one month in Zimbabwe having the trip of a lifetime, spontaneous and crazy. Upon my return home I had coffee with a friend curious about the journey. I told her in detail how incredibly exciting it had been. Followed by: “I want to travel all the time. I want be a globetrotter!”

“When can you start calling yourself a globetrotter?” she asked. I had no idea, but set the bar at ‘having been to one third of the world or 64 countries’.

In the ten years that followed I never really kept this goal in mind and my definition of a globetrotter has significantly changed since then. I wouldn’t define it through an amount of visited countries, but that’s another discussion. Anyway, before I knew it, I had become a globetrotter according to my -outdated- definition.

With all these destinations on my travel resumé, I’m often asked which one is my favourite. It’s a hard question! Not per se because I love all the places equally but because so many have deeply touched me, one way or another.

While I was stuck on an 8-hour bus ride last week, I started pondering the question more seriously. Is it really impossible to pick a favourite? Yes, it is. However, I have managed to narrow down the list to a top 12. I was aiming for 10 but…

So in no Particular order

1. Oman

I loved everything about Oman. Taking a road trip through the country introduced me to the genuinely warm and friendly people, the tasty food, interesting wildlife, the stunning landscapes featuring all my favourite colours… With the risk of sounding cliché, Oman truly is a hidden gem.

wadi perfect for a dip

2. Shops, drinks and midnight snacks in Shoreditch, London

I’ve starred London as a favourite a long time ago but discovering the neighbourhood of Shoreditch has taken London to the next level for me. It’s the London that pushes you out of your comfort zone, inspires and yet feels comfortable and homely.

some amazing food in the area

3. Motorbiking Ubud and surroundings, Bali

This probably doesn’t come as a shocker seeing I chose to live here for a year. The spiritual atmosphere, the lush green surroundings, the smell of incense filling the air and the sweet Balinese people. This island is just… Magic

rice fields around Ubud

4. Backpacking through Zimbabwe

As I mentioned above it was my first trip. It wasn’t so much the attractions that made this one of my favourite destinations, it was more a general feeling of well-being. Drinking a beer under the African sun with some of the world’s most impressive waterfalls in the background while making lasting friendships with locals and expats.

sunset over the Zambezi

5. Cruising through Lake Connemara and surroundings, Ireland

The Irish country in general, is incredibly beautiful. I can see why it has been an inspiration for quite some songs, literature and poetry. In fact, you could possibly say that the Irish countryside is poetry.

somewhere along the way

6. Living the island life in Zanzibar

I’ve had to wait 15 years to go to Zanzibar and when I finally did, it was even more jaw-dropping than expected. The water is of the bluest blue, the earth is red, spices are abundant and there is always a freshly caught fish grilling on some coals. You can feel the mystic that comes with the historic crossroads of cultures.

Zanzibari fishing village

7. Morocco

Every time I go to Morocco I’m amazed at how much I love the country. Why amazed? Because it can be quite tantalising at times. The touts in the touristy cities like Marrakech, constant bargaining, scams… Yet I can’t help but adore this country and I gladly accept its flaws.

Morocco’s most iconic town Aït Benhaddou

8. Venturing out into Timor-Leste

It was such an out of the blue destination on which I couldn’t find much information online. I had no expectations whatsoever, perhaps that is why I was so pleasantly surprised. Beside the gorgeous scenery it was the big unknown and the sense of adventure that made this place special to me. Timor-Leste offers a challenge to the seasoned traveller.

coastline in Dili

9. Hiking Dominica

Rugged and unknown- I’m starting to see a pattern here- Dominica has the ideal reggae/Caribbean island vibe. My entire stay there I felt like an old-school explorer, minus the compass. It’s the only island in the caribbean that has no white sand beaches which is why it’s often overlooked by package and cruise tourists leaving it unspoilt.

every now and again a sign reminds you that you’re not the first person to explore the island

10. The old city of Jerusalem, Israel

Israel is a generally a great tourist destination but the old city of Jerusalem… That place vibrates. You feel and see emotion wherever you look. You can breathe history, touch spirituality, smell culture, taste tradition. The old town of Jerusalem is a truly unique place.

quiet streets of the old city

11. Dancing to dirty reggeaton beats in Venezuela

Less than an hour after exiting the airport of Caracas, I told the friend I was visiting: “This is it. I belong in this country”. We laughed, but I wasn’t joking. Venezuela has it all: the beaches, the rain forests, the deserts, the mountains, the party cities. It has attitude, it has style. The only thing lacking is a decent government to help the country grow to its full potential.

Los Roques, my first encounter with the caribbean

12. Bhaktapur, Nepal

Besides the fact that practically the entire city is made of wood and full of temples, it was the general “zen-atmosphere” I might have enjoyed most in Bhaktapur. I’d wake up every morning to the sound of prayers and gentle bells followed by the smell of freshly brewed tea. Enchanting! Also, it’s where you can find the best curd in the world!

Bhaktapur in the morning light

I may be a globetrotter in the eyes of my 19 year-old self but in the eyes of the woman I am today, I still have a long way to go.

I just couldn’t resist to list some honourable mentions: Copenhagen, Cuba, the forests of Washington State, Singapore, Amsterdam, The Sinai (Egypt), Lake Bunyonyi (Uganda) and New York City.

What are your 5 favourite destinations?

The post “12 Favourite Destinations” first appeared on Travel Cake.

September 2, 2014
Bologna “la grassa”, a foodie’s paradise

Bologna is often referred to as the culinary capital of Italy. Because of its abundance and variety in high quality cuisine, the city was nicknamed “la grassa”or litteraly “the fat” during the Middle Ages. It was this little fact that had me browsing for flights and checking my calendar. Since I’m currently staying in Europe for a few months, I couldn’t possibly resist a food trip to Italy, could I?

So I packed some loose fitting clothes and off I went. Due to work obligations, I only had a short 3 days of spare time, thus limited eating opportunities. I didn’t get a chance to sample all that the Emilia-Romagna region has to offer, but I can tell you this:

La grassa does not disappoint!

Some of the staples I tried:

The Italian cliché: espressos and cappuccinos

It’s probably one of the first things that come to mind when you think of people-watching on an Italian terrace, whether you like coffee or not. The espressos were just as strong and tiny as I’d expected them to be and the cappuccinos had a perfect steamed-milk foam collar. For someone who doesn’t usually drink coffee, I sure had lot lot of caffeine racing through my system. Good thing it’s absolutely not done to order a coffee after 12pm or else I would have been bouncing off the walls all throughout my stay.

pre-breakfast espresso, comes with a glass of water to consume BEFORE the espresso to clear the palate

post breakfast cappuccino

playing with foam

Cured meats

Cured meats are not my thing. I hardly ever eat any, but these… These I could eat all day, everyday. It made me wonder if we can even call what we’re consuming cured meats. Typical for the region are pancetta, mortadella, different types of salami, prosciutto, zampone… Most eateries offer mixed platters which allows you to sample the different types of artisan meats. For cured meat fans, this is heaven on earth!

delicate and refined in taste

Parmesan

The home of parmesan cheese! This is where the good stuff is made. I wasn’t fortunate enough to visit the parmesan factory, so I did the next best thing; I waited for the crowds to leave and went to the market near closing time. I talked to the vendors who were relaxed since there was no line of people waiting to get served. I asked them questions about the cheese making process and tried different types of parmesan, to find the one I liked best. The vendors were very informative and eager to share their knowledge.

The “real” balsamico vinegar from Modena

Of course I’ve had balsamic vinegar before, but the real balsamic vinegar carries history and is made according to tradition. It tastes similar to your supermarket variety but really, it’s almost a different product. Did you know the traditional balsamic vinegar goes through an ageing process? Well, I didn’t! I tried a 25 year old vinegar. An incredible explosion of aromas! When I heard it pairs well with chunks of parmesan, I just had to try this unusual combination. Just exquisite.

parmesan with balsamic vinegar

Lambrusco

I tried out lots of Italian wines, a frizzante (sparkeling) Lambrusco is my favourite. I was surprised to learn how widely exported this wine is, as it was first I heard of it. There are white and rosé varieties but the sparkling red is really something unusual and particularly tasty.

refreshing glass of Lambrusco

The original Bolognese sauce

So, what we know as spaghetti bolognese turns out to be… a big fat lie. There is no such thing as spaghetti with bolognese sauce. The original sauce, called ragù, was created in Bologna, explaining the ‘Bolognese’ part of the name, but is not -and should never be according to the Italians- served with spaghetti. It has to be served with (preferably fresh) tagliatelle. I must say, I do prefer ragù with tagliatelle than with spaghetti.

ragù alla bolognese

Fresh pasta

Tortellini, tagliatelle, ravioli… You see them in shop windows looking so fresh, so delicious. I couldn’t resist and bought a wide variety to cook at home. Yes, I left Italy with a suitcase full of pasta.

Piadina

A flatbread typical of the Romagna region. It’s what you would have instead of a sandwich or a wrap. The toppings vary, but are mostly local products. It doesn’t look like anything extraordinary but looks can be deceiving. The freshness of the products and their delicate taste elevate this snack to a higher level. Make sure to get a piadina that is freshly made.

piadina on the go

freshly made with local toppings

Parma ham

There are so many different types, with different ageing processes I couldn’t chose which one to get. That’s why I asked the shopkeeper to give me a few slices of his favourite one. There is a factory in the town of Parma open to visitors where you’ll learn all about Parma ham a.k.a proscuitto. I wasn’t able to visit, but the tastings were good enough for me.

shop selling all the local delicacies

Gelatto

Another classic in Italy. So rich, so flavourful.

chocolate-hazelnut gelatto

Aperitivo

This was my favourite part of the trip. Every day, from around 5.30pm to 9pm most places in Bologna offer food with every drink you order. Some places offer a buffet, others have a fixed aperitivo dish of the day. Everybody flocks to these places after work to have drinks, a chat and something to eat. The food is included in the price of the drink. Aperitivo is the social meeting the culinary and that is perhaps why I enjoyed it so much.

aperitivo at Marsalino

Fresh produce

The markets simply impressed me. With fruits and vegetables looking so vibrant and smelling so fresh, all I wanted to do was to cook. The market inspired me to create… Not only dishes, but just about anything. If I lived here, I would never set foot in a supermarket. At least not for produce.

at the market

learning Italian vocabulary

There are so many other foods typical of the region that I have yet to taste. I like to think it’s a reason to go back.

Have you eaten in Italy? What is your favourite Italian dish?

The post “Bologna la grassa, a foodie’s paradise” first appeared on Travel Cake.

July 21, 2014
10 Ways Hong Kong Surprised Me

While I spent quite some time browsing through inspiring pictures and reading many informative articles about Hong Kong, the city still managed to surprise me in several ways.

1. Dim sum heaven

For someone who doesn’t even like dim sum, I was amazed to hear myself say: “Let’s have dim sum for breakfast-lunch-dinner… Yes, again!” I can now say pretentious things like: “I only eat dim sum in HK”. Hong Kong boasts a ton of Michelin starred dim sum at affordable prices. Famous chefs and renowned magazines/newspapers award prizes to their favourite dim sum places. I wanted to try them all but unfortunately, my stomach doesn’t stretch that far.

Michelin star dim sum

glutenous beef fat

steamed meet balls at “One Dim Sum”, tastes much better than it looks!

Douglas vs. Anthony Bourdain

2. Antique shopping in the morning

Arriving in Hong Kong, all I could see were tall buildings; banks, offices theatres, malls apartments… The city has such a modern feel to it, I certainly wasn’t expecting to stumble upon quaint alleyways lined with potted plants, cute stairways and rows of knickknack and antiques stalls. Even though I promised myself not to do any shopping in HK -yeah, right- I couldn’t resist purchasing just a few trinkets.

treasure hunt

near “Hollywood road”

3. The goldfish market

At first, it was all excitement seeing the thousands of goldfish racked throughout the long street. Then I felt uncomfortable seeing all the helpless creatures bumping their foreheads against the plastic windows. But then again… it’s local culture and tradition, does that change anything? The goldfish are bought as good luck charms, but they’re also important for good feng shui in a home. In this area, you can find more than just fish… There are frogs, shrimp, turtles, birds, hamsters, rabbits… Basically, it’s the pets neighbourhood.

long street full of “good luck charms”

creepy frogs

free goldie?

4. Helpful, friendly, non-smiling locals

On several occasions, locals stopped their fast paced treads to ask if we needed help -I admit we looked baffled and lost at times. They would ask us the question, we’d answer thinking a small chat starring “where are you from” would follow, but no… They’d resume their default lives only a split second after we’d state we weren’t actually lost. No smile, no “bye”… they’d just off. I liked it: friendly, to the point and no bullsh*t.

5. Egg waffles

Best eaten warm and plain, the eggette is the most popular street food in Hong Kong. Because they are hollow, I thought it wouldn’t be of my liking- I’m quite difficult when it comes to deserts. I can tell you this: I was already ordering seconds while my mouth was still full with the first bite. This egg waffle really hits the spot after a long day in the city! Simple flavour, light and not too sweet… Give me some more bubble waffles!

crunchy egg waffle

6. Chinese tea traditions

Ok, this wasn’t really a surprise, I knew of the existence of the Chinese art of tea. Yet, I had never seen it with my own eyes. The elegance and refinement in which the Chinese lady poured us a cup of Oolong was so captivating I kept pulling out more teas from the rack for “tasting”… If you’re really into tea, you can book a tea tasting tour where you’ll learn more about the process and traditions. If you just want a taste of the magic, you can walk into a traditional tea store and ask to sample some teas. It’s free, but of course you are expected to buy some brew after an elaborate tasting.

Oolong, the traditional way

Chinese tea

7. Double dekker trams

A perfect fusion between the red British buses and the portuguese trams. I marvelled at the city as the tram unveiled its busy streets and quiet neighbourhoods. Hop on hop off anywhere you want with the octopus card, which I strongly suggest you buy if you’ll be spending a couple of days in and around the city. It gives you access to the metro, busses, trams… You can even use it to pay at connivence stores.

driving through the financial district

view from the top of the tram

8. Hygiene comes first

This is definitely not China! Not only are the streets tidy and organised, there are signs everywhere reminding you that certain things/areas are disinfected several times a day. With such a high population density, I can only applaud it ! Public spaces offer free hand sanitizer and public toilets are clean. It’s no Singapore, but still, it would put any germaphobe at ease.

“germ free” escalators

9. The main attractions are kinda lame

At least, the ones I saw were. The avenue of stars where-amongst others- the famous Bruce Lee statue stands, was filled with pushy loud tourists, making it hard to enjoy the Hong Kong skyline. At the same place, there is a free laser and sound show (the symphony of lights) every evening which is promoted as “spectacular”. The first 30 seconds were impressive… but after that I shrugged my shoulders and kept walking. I promise, it’s not because I’m spoiled, HK expats told me the same thing. Maybe they’re spoiled too? Still worth checking it out, just don’t expect “spectacular”.

everybody wants their picture with the life sized Bruce Lee

romantic junk boats

10. Lots of funny random stuff

I was expecting more kitsch and “Hello Kitty”, but apparently, to get more of that, one needs to go to the “Mainland”, which is how locals refer to China. So no real culture shock, but still, I had a few giggles not really understanding things and wondering… “WHY?”

rich birds order fancy food?

restaurant staff on a break. I actually thought this was a show and that they would burst out singing and dancing. Nope, just napping

in a hip (grown up) accessory store… I’m lost, do any of you know this?

instant Brazilian butt lift, just 3$ at the market

Mufasa now serves as a backpack

Which destination has surprised you? Is Hong Kong on your ‘wish list”?

The post “10 ways Hong Kong surprised me” first appeared on Travel Cake.

April 17, 2014
5 Quirky Things to do in Bali

There is a great misconception that Bali is just another tourist mecca full of beautiful clichés. Granted, there is a great deal of mass tourism, but there is so much more to it than that. Finding authenticity is a walk in the park and going off the beaten track is just as easy. Quirks are plentiful and one needn’t look far to find some. Besides the cultural oddities, there are tonnes of fun off-beat activities you can participate in. These are my favourite quirky things to do in Bali.

1. Mud wrestling under a full moon at the Green school

The greenest school on earth lies somewhere between rice fields and Balinese villages. Built entirely out of bamboo, the Green School boasts an endangered bird rehabilitation program, an organic vegetable garden grown by its students, an enormous crystal radiating positive energy on the playground, a natural swimming pool and… a mud pit. Students, teachers and visitors regularly engage in playful mud wrestling tournaments. Several times a year, a “Mepantigan full moon performance” is held on the school grounds. Mepantigan is a traditional act combining Balinese martial art, fire dance, drama and music. Those who don’t mind getting their clothes dirty, can join the mud fun after the performance.

playing in the mud. Mind the school’s horse in the background. Photo by Ana Baranova

Even if you’re not lucky enough to be in town during the mud fight, I recommend visiting the Green School anyway. A sustainable international school running on solar energy with “a vision of a natural, holistic, student-centered learning environment that empowers and inspires its students to be creative, innovative, green leaders.” A school so incredibly cool, you’d want to turn into a kid just to attend. Visit their website to find out more or to book a tour.

we could all learn something at the green school

2. Party hard… and sober on a Sunday morning

Every Sunday, Ubud’s most popular yoga spot organises a smashing Sunday Dance. Starting at 11AM, expats, locals and visitors come together to party like there is no tomorrow. People let go and let lose, moving their bodies to the music in which ever way they feel like, expressing themselves through movement. There is screaming, crying, laughter, sweaty hugs, glitter… Anything goes. There is only one rule: no talking. As the dance progresses, the music gets more intense and the dancers feed on each other’s energies. Unbelievably powerful! I’ve added this to the list of quirky things because, if you only ever danced in amongst a crowd at a club or at a party and preferably in slightly intoxicated condition, your first minutes there can feel quite awkward and bizarre. As soon as you realise nobody is there to observe or judge, you loose your inhibitions naturally. Put on a smile, dance and spend the rest of your day on cloud nine.

good vibes on Sunday morning

3. Laugh your head off during a laughing yoga session

Laughter strengthens your immune system, boosts your energy, diminishes pain and protects you from the damaging effects of stress. This is the mantra that inspires the biweekly laughing yoga gatherings in Ambar Ashram. Imagine a grass field covered with 100 Balinese on a yoga mat, laughing themselves silly. Doesn’t that sound like the place to be?! Even though it’s a local activity and the spoken language is Indonesian, foreigners are more than welcome… Laughter knows no language. There’s more to the class than laughter, but I don’t want to reveal any spoilers. Classes are free and last an hour. Bring a yoga mat if you have one and leave with a relaxed mind and body!

After laughing yoga with Peter

laughing it out

4. Sip on fancy ‘cat poop coffee’

I haven’t gone mad, I consciously wrote “cat poop coffee”. That’s right, Kopi Luwak, the most expensive coffee in the world, is actually “civet cat poop coffee”. Some explanation… As night falls, wild civets roam around the “Luwak “coffee plantations to feed on the plants’ best coffee beans. The civets having partially digested the beans, excrement them around the plantation. The farmers then search for and pick up the stools. Once dry, the remaining beans are picked out by hand, then peeled and roasted. The result: world’s most exclusive coffee. “Is it any good?”, you want know… Well I’ve heard mixed reviews: some find it exquisite, others find it too bland. It’s not a coffee that will have you bouncing off the walls, but I enjoyed its mildness. It definitely doesn’t taste as gross as the title could have you thinking, but I’m not sure it’s worth the €6/100gr to me.

coffee eating civet, sadly encaged as a show piece for tourists

dried civet feces

kopi luwak- cat poop coffee

5. For women only: enjoy a steam sauna… for your most intimate organ

This one actually originates from a traditional Javanese beauty and bridal ritual. I’ll keep the story short. Just before marriage or after giving birth, Javanese women undergo a cleansing ritual. Only wearing a sarong, the women are seated on a chair with a hole. In that hole lies a clay plot with heated charcoal and herbs creating rising fog which “cleans” the women’s private parts. This procedure called “ratus”, is also practiced in Bali and is available in local spa’s. You don’t need to be a bride to enjoy the Javanese beauty secret. Now every adventurous woman can give it a go. It takes about 45minutes and in some modern spa’s you will get a shoulder massage while you get “steamed”. My ratus experience was a very pleasant one. After feelings of awkwardness sitting half-naked on a smoking chair, came relaxation and bliss. I felt rejuvenated and fresh. To be repeated! I underwent the treatment at Midas Spa in Ubud.

get the picture?

These are just a few of the unusual things to do in Bali. Plenty more to discover throughout the island and the entire country!

Which one of these quirks would you attempt?

The post “5 Quirky Things to do in Bali first appeared” on Travel Cake.

April 2, 2014
Canchánchara: Cuban Cocktail Recipe
The canchánchara… My favourite cocktail, born in the colonial town of Trinidad in Cuba. Spend a day in the old town and let it transport you to another era. An era of cobbled streets, horse drawn carriages and grand 19th century Spanish mansions. Add some slightly ‘rum intoxicated’ mulattos swinging their hips to the rhythmic conga beats in the sweltering late afternoon heat and you’ve got yourself the perfect Cuban cliché, which quite truthfully, isn’t too far off from reality.

cobbled streets of Trinidad

I’m not planning to go back to Cuba any time soon, but I’m craving a taste of that Cuban passion and fierceness. So today, I’m putting some salsa music on full blast and making my “go-to cocktail”. It’s a fast and easy recipe. Care to join me?

WHAT YOU’LL NEED (makes 1 glass)
- 5 cl Rum
- 1.5 cl lime (approx. juice of 1 lime)
- 1.5 cl honey (approx. 1 Tablespoon)
- a handful of crushed ice
- soda water to top off
The original recipe calls for raw rum (aguardiente), but white rum will do. If you prefer your cocktail more sweet or sour, adjust the lime-honey ratio.

ingredients

PREPARATION
1. Mix the lime and the honey in a glass until the honey is completely dissolved.
2. Add your shot of rum
3. Fill the glass with (crushed) ice
4. Top off with a dash of sparkling water
TIP: If you’re making cocktails for several people, make a batch of honey-lime mix ahead of time and keep it in a bottle or container. This way you can top up your guests drinks more easily: pour some of the mixture into your guests glass and just add rum, ice and water, saves you a lot of time.

Salud!

There you have it, a delicious canchánchara for a passionate Friday evening! ¡Salud!

A special toast to my father’s birthday!

What is your favourite cocktail?

The post “Canchánchara: Cuban Cocktail Recipe” first appeared on Travel Cake.
March 7, 2014
Travel app tip: Momondo Places

I’ve recently discovered an interesting new iPad app by travel search site Momondo. I’m really excited about it so I thought I’d share it with you. ‘Momondo places‘ is an interactive city guide app helping you to find hotels, restaurants, shops, sights, markets and activities for your city trip. At this moment, there are 7 city guides to chose from: Barcelona, Berlin, Copenhagen, London, New York, Paris and Rome.

What’s so great about ‘Momondo Places’?

The Originality: The colour wheel

A colour wheel with corresponding “moods” allows you to get specific suggestions of where to go, eat, sleep, play… Feeling ‘social’? The app gives you hostels, cheap activities, and vibrant nightlife tips. Pick your mood and you’re set.

The Usability

‘Momondo Places’ is a very intuitive app. No need to read a manual to understand how it works, the app speaks for itself. In fact, I’m pretty sure my grandmother wouldn’t have any problems getting the hang of it. Aside from the smooth navigation, it’s also very flexible; you can search on other criteria besides “mood”. Look for specific items like: restaurants only, certain areas only, what’s near your current location or all of the above combined.

The Style

The app has stylish visuals. It has the look and feel of a book which allows you to flip through the pages filled with tips. It’s packed with beautiful high quality photographs giving you an idea of what to expect.

The Content

The guide book is a pleasant read. Again, not too complicated, straight to the point. It features hotspots as well as hidden gems and you can leave feedback for every tip offered. There is also a function that allows you to ‘favourite’ tips you want to remember or to reuse.

The interactive offline working map

This is might be what I like most about the app. All the suggested places to visit as well as public transportation stops are pinned on an interactive map. Once downloaded, the map is available offline, so you can navigate the city on GPS. You can see yourself moving though the streets and walk straight to your destination.

It’s free!

You download the app for free, then download the desired city guide(s) for free. As I mentioned above, once it’s downloaded, you can use the content and the map without Wi-Fi or 3G. So no roaming costs either.

As you can tell, I’m sold! The only thing missing is more destinations! Momondo is currently working on new city guides covering Lisbon, Amsterdam and Moscow, but I hope there is more to come. They are also developing a mobile app, which is more interesting to me, seeing I don’t usually carry my iPad whilst exploring a city.

Check out Momondo Places, it’s free! Download the app here.

What travel apps do you use?

February 20, 2014
Torajan Death Rituals

“Would you like to go to a funeral, m’am?”

Not exactly the question you’d expect when stepping out of a long distance bus… And yet, what this man was proposing, is quite normal in Tana Toraja. In fact, funerals are the “main attraction” in the region. Visitors mostly come to learn about the Torajan culture in which death happens to play a central role. The Torajans are known for their elaborate traditional funeral rites. Tana Toraja, which means land of the Toraja people, is located in South Sulawesi, Indonesia.

arriving in Tana Toraja, Sulawesi

Intrigued by this culture, we agreed to the invitation and headed to the funeral only minutes after dropping our bags at the hotel. Luther, our guide, advised us to gift a few packs of cigarettes to the mourning family. “Cigarettes”? How ironic. He also told us we were very lucky; we were going to the funeral of a very rich lady who had long been chief of village…

“Lucky”? What a confusing use of words…

The deceased lady’s family welcomed us warmly and insisted we’d sit with them. We were offered tea and biscuits while encouraged to chat about our countries. This was all very awkward. The taboo around death in Western cultures was clearly nowhere to be found around here.

The Torajans seemed very “relaxed” about it all. That might have something to do with the fact that when people pass, they are not buried straight away. Their families continue to work in order to gather all necessary funds to finance the funeral. It may take months or years before the burying rituals begin, depending on the family’s cash flow.

Meanwhile, the bodies are embalmed, wrapped in cloth and kept in their traditional houses or ‘tongkonan’, under the same roof with their kin. Their spirits then dwell around the village until the burial. The dead aren’t considered dead, but merely ‘incurably ill’ until the funeral is complete. They are treated as though they were still alive. Family members take turns in sitting with the body, brining it food, water and cigarettes on a daily basis. Not doing so would lead the deceased to think they aren’t cared about and he/she would bring bad luck to the village.

tongkonans

In Torajan culture, the funeral is the most important ceremony in life. One leads his life in order to have the biggest, most elaborate funeral possible. The 100 or more guests always bring a gift: cigarettes, rice, a pig or a buffalo according to their financial ability. The funeral lasts 11 days and consists of serval rites.

highly prized buffalo being gifted to the family

chanting and dancing

buffalo fighting is part of the funeral rites

a procession of the closest family members

spiritual men lead the procession

Torajan funerals are a bloody affair. The deceased’s soul is believed to travel to the afterlife on a buffalo or horse. How do you bring livestock to your afterlife? By sacrificing it, of course. Therefore, the more buffalo offered, the more reassured the family will be that their loved ones will reach his or her final destination safely. Apart from buffaloes, the dead will also need to bring along their most valuable possessions, including the rest of their livestock. This is one of the most important funeral rites: pigs and buffaloes are slaughtered by the dozens. Their souls join their owners while their flesh is distributed with the living family and guests. How’s that for a party favour, a big bag of meat…

gifted pigs

the meat is shared amongst guest and the blood is kept in bamboo

Because buffaloes come with a high price tag, their horns are cut off and kept as a “trophy”. They are hung up on the deceased tongkonan and represent the family’s wealth. The more horns on your house, the wealthier your family.

small buffalo horns

tongkonan of a wealthy family

When the funeral is completed the bodies are buried. Not under the ground, but in a cave or in a hole carved in a cliff. Family members craft a “tau-tau”; what could be compared to an avatar, representing the deceased. His/her spirit is believed to inhabit the tau-tau. They are placed on a balcony in front of the graves. Several times a year, after the rice harvest, family members ask their ancestors, inhabiting the tau-tau, for well being, good crops and healthy children.

graves in the cliff

tau-tau and graves

tau-tau; meaning not human, nor puppet.

more live like tau-tau

The burying ritual for babies is less complex. The lifeless babies are embalmed and placed in a sitting position in a carved hole of a large tree. The type of tree used a for the burying is a specific one; a thick white fluid oozes from its bark when cut. The fluid symbolises the milk the tree will feed the young child with. It embraces the babies by growing around them and closing the hole. It becomes their mother. These trees are considered sacred and may not be approached by outsiders but we were allowed to visit an old tree which is no longer in use.

baby graves

Attending a funeral is weirdly enough, a top attraction in Tana Toraja. I found it such an incredible enrichment to experience how this culture deals with death and what place it has in their communities. Watching the slaughtering was bit harsh, however that’s easily put into perspective since it’s so authentic. This is not some show put on for tourists, this is Torajan reality. People are so friendly and open, I quickly felt at ease.

‘Funeral season’ is in July and August, but there are funerals throughout the year. Tourists are welcome to attend them and are treated as honoured guests. Make sure you bring a gift to the family! There isn’t really a dress code, but obviously you should dress modestly and respectfully. If you have a black t-shirt, wear it; you’ll fit right in. The city of Rantepao is a good base to explore Tana Toraja.

Would animal sacrificing stop you from attending a local ritual?

The post ‘Torajan death rituals‘ first appeared on Travel Cake.

February 10, 2014
Thingyan, Water festival in Myanmar

Who doesn’t love a smashing new year’s party? What if I told you this party lasts a few days, takes place in the sunny outdoors and involves insane amounts of water… That’s Thingyan, the water festival leading to the Burmese New Year. The festival takes place throughout Myanmar around mid april, during the country’s hottest period. Similar waterfestivals are celebrated in the neighbouring buddhist countries Thailand, Laos (Songkran) and Cambodia (Chaul Chnam Thmey).

We were lucky enough to be in Myanmar for Thingyan. It’s the most important public holiday in the country and we were told that the best place to celebrate, is in the capital. So we set off to Yangon a couple of days before the festival as there is very limited transportation during the festival.

I hadn’t expected the water festival to be a big deal. Boy, was I wrong! It started in the taxi on the way to the centre. The driver had covered the seats and dashboard with plastic.

stupidly thinking I stood a chance with my super soaker…

I asked him: “why is you car completely covered in pla…”

SPLASH!

An excited young man standing by the side of the road had just emptied a full bucket of ice water over my head. The taxi driver roared with laughter. “Happy happy?” he asked.

“Yes, happy…” I replied startled.

And so the tone was set…

ready for Thingyan

Although there is water thrown around absolutely everywhere, all the time -walking down the street in dry clothes is impossible- there are several areas where entertainment is provided. Most tourists found their way to the main square where a stage was set up featuring traditional dancers and water hoses. The dancing was beautiful but compared to what was going on in other parts of town this was quite boring.

THE place to be for Thingyan in Yangon is at the Kandawgyi Lake. That’s where all the cool kids go. It’s fun, loud, and utter madness. Dozens of temporary water spraying stations are set up and double as dance stages. Pop and electro music blares from the speakers as the people dance, play and sing under what can only be described as the world’s largest shower. Every two steps a cheerful Burmese shakes your hand and asks “happy happy?”. You reply “happy happy!”.

world’s largest shower (1.5km long)

Every single person is soaking wet and carries some kind of container filled with water. When you’re not standing under the “mega shower” someone empties their container over you and simultaneously wishes you a ‘Happy New Year’.

The water is pumped out of the lake and is flowing morning to sunset, non-stop. Hoses used to soak festivalgoers vary from regular garden hoses to fire hoses! At some point I was even sprayed down with a high-pressure washer which was quiet painful. But it’s for a good cause: the festival is held to wash away evil deeds, bad luck and sins from the past year before entering the new. Many of the adolescents take advantage of the more or less ‘free pass’ to commit some last minute “sins”. Drinking in public, walking hand in hand with their crushes, dressing and dancing provocatively…

the cool kids in town

Black Culture, organiser of one of the spraying stations, invited us to party on their dance floor. The DJ played some good beats and we mingled with the teenagers, hosing down passers-by. It reminded me of the City Parade, plus shower.

from the spraying platform

on the dance/hose down stage, photo by Marc-Antoine Martineau

party at Black Culture, photo by Marc-Antoine Martineau

The enthusiasm, excitement and happiness of the people were mind blowing. But then again, not really… This is the only time a year where the Burmese government permits crowds to gather in public areas. It’s the only time where colour, rank and status have little or no significance. Everyone is included; kids, grand-parents, business men in suits, tourists, bus drivers…

hiding under dad’s coat

The Burmese usually come across as soft-spoken, shy people, however, during Thingyan, they change into a fun-loving, outgoing crowd. Seeing this metamorphosis -maybe partly due to their alcohol consumption- is one of the things I enjoyed most about the water festival.

joking around with local women, photo by Marc-Antoine Martineau

The festival lasts 3 to 5 days and the parties are mainly during day light. After sunset the participants return home and get a good night’s rest to resume the festivities the following day.

ending a fun day with a sleeping smile, photo by Marc-Antoine Martineau

TIPS

It’s important to really participate. Let go of your inhibitions and dance, jump, party… Get in there, allow people to talk to you. Go just as nuts as they do!

Those wanting to take a break from the madness or wish to take it easy, there are funfairs and (wet) food stands around the premises.

greasy snacks

Don’t forget to protect your camera and other tech stuff from the water!

If you do manage to take a train or bus during Thingyan, don’t think your safe. You will get hosed down in there too!

Celebrate Thingyan in 2014 from Sunday April 13th to Wednesday April 16th.

Have you heard of Thingyan? Would you enjoy such a festival?

The post Thingyan, Water Festival in Myanmar first appeared on TravelCake.net

January 30, 2014