It’s been quiet on Travel Cake these past few months. Some of you have been asking me where I’ve been and what I’ve been up to. Well, I can tell you this much: I haven’t been slacking!
I’ve moved from Ecuador to Belgium where I have been slaving away at a 9 to 5 desk job. Being back in my hometown has been wonderful in terms of reconnecting with friends, family and the city. You may have read the mini luxury guide to Ghent I wrote for travel blog “Hippie in Heels”. You may also have read what I had to say about travel photography in an article for “Voyager for life“.
saying my goodbyes to Ecuador
But most importantly, I’ve been preparing for the trip of a lifetime. A new adventure, greater than any I’ve ever been on before.
Destination?
Motherhood.
That’s right,I said motherhood.
The journey began 10 months ago in Iran and continued in Ecuador and Colombia. It took a turn in the US and passed by the Netherlands. It then continued to Belgium where our daughter was born. Our ‘Mini Travel Cake’ is a sweet and funny baby with a traveller’s spirit. How could it be any different, she is only a month old and has already been to 6 countries!
Does this mean Travel Cake is turning into a mommy blog?
No. Plain and simple. It’s just not my cup of tea. However, I’ll probably publish an article related to kids and travel every once in a while. But in general I plan on publishing the same kind of content as I have so far.
As my pregnancy came to an end, I was stuck indoors with a swollen face hiding from the summer heat. Knowing that my life will never be exactly the same again, I thought about my passed travels. Motherhood is probably the most intense and life changing adventure of them all and I’m THRILLED not to have rushed into it. Thrilled to have taken time to see and experience as much of the world as possible while being relatively carefree. That’s why, as a tribute to carefree travelling, I will be posting a countdown of my 100 most memorable, essential travel experiences.
Here goes part 1, in no particular order:
100. Driving miles and miles on the rooftops of Nepali busses.
A drink, music blasting from your headphones and wind running through your hair… the best seats are in between the luggage on the roof of the bus!
Morocco’s riads are so romantic, so sophisticated and worth the occational splurge. I tried looking the part sippin’ on an overpriced martini in one of Morocco’s fancy riads. Click on the title to read about my weekend in Fez, Morocco.
98. Floating through life on a houseboat in the backwaters of Kerala
Waking up on the deck of our houseboat, having breakfast while we glide over the waterways, sigh…
Water party in a pop-up day clubThis is a common street scene in Yangon during the water festival. Click on the title to read about our experiences during Thingyan.
Our first and very ill prepared trek at 4300m altitude. Click on the title to read a post related to trekking.
95. Rum cocktails in Castro’s Cuba
Cuba during Castro’s reign was such a bizarre yet unique and enchanting place. At least for visitors. Things may have changed but I’m sure the rum cocktails are still just as delicious!
After a breathtaking hike, I reached the cabin of an Albanian family who welcomed me for tea and burek. Instant adoption. Click on the title to read about my hike in the Albanian Alps.
93. Spending the night in the garden of Eden in the Democratic Republic of Congo
Watching the sun set after a long walk in what seemed like the garden of Eden. DRC has fantastic nature, I wish I could say the same for the political situation.
A childhood dream came true when we spotted these cuties in the jungle of Sulawesi, Indonesia. Click on the title to read more about our time in Sulawesi.
91. Fishing, sunbathing and drinking on a catamaran in Los Roques, Venezuela
My first time on a caribbean beach, I was overwhelmed by the high tropical factor
90. Traveling by train in Russia
I got to know my cabin mates by communicating with signs on a 40 hour train ride to the Russian Arctic
Camping on a deserted beach in southern Oman.We stumbled upon some sea turtles laying their eggs in the sand. Click on the title to read about my road trip to Oman.
86. Learning to scuba dive
Wreck diving in the Philippines, a new world opening up…My first open water dive in Zanzibar, one of many more to come.
The more I talked to local people on both sides of the conflict, the more confused I was on the issues. No matter how much I hung out in the old streets of Jerusalem. Read more about my trip to Israel.Crossing the horrendous border to Palestine. Click on the title to read more about my findings in Palestine.
It’s been exactly 10 years today since my first independent trip. By “independent” I mean a trip not organised or sponsored by parents, school or other organisations… I started traveling on my own dime in my own time.
I was 19 when a friend and I booked a ticket to Zimbabwe, a country we knew almost nothing about. Feeling all kinds of cool, we embarked on an adventure that would shape the people we’d become. We spent one month in Zimbabwe having the trip of a lifetime, spontaneous and crazy. Upon my return home I had coffee with a friend curious about the journey. I told her in detail how incredibly exciting it had been. Followed by: “I want to travel all the time. I want be a globetrotter!”
“When can you start calling yourself a globetrotter?” she asked. I had no idea, but set the bar at ‘having been to one third of the world or 64 countries’.
In the ten years that followed I never really kept this goal in mind and my definition of a globetrotter has significantly changed since then. I wouldn’t define it through an amount of visited countries, but that’s another discussion. Anyway, before I knew it, I had become a globetrotter according to my -outdated- definition.
With all these destinations on my travel resumé, I’m often asked which one is my favourite. It’s a hard question! Not per se because I love all the places equally but because so many have deeply touched me, one way or another.
While I was stuck on an 8-hour bus ride last week, I started pondering the question more seriously. Is it really impossible to pick a favourite? Yes, it is. However, I have managed to narrow down the list to a top 12. I was aiming for 10 but…
So in no Particular order
1. Oman
I loved everything about Oman. Taking a road trip through the country introduced me to the genuinely warm and friendly people, the tasty food, interesting wildlife, the stunning landscapes featuring all my favourite colours… With the risk of sounding cliché, Oman truly is a hidden gem.
wadi perfect for a dip
2. Shops, drinks and midnight snacks in Shoreditch, London
I’ve starred London as a favourite a long time ago but discovering the neighbourhood of Shoreditch has taken London to the next level for me. It’s the London that pushes you out of your comfort zone, inspires and yet feels comfortable and homely.
some amazing food in the area
3. Motorbiking Ubud and surroundings, Bali
This probably doesn’t come as a shocker seeing I chose to live here for a year. The spiritual atmosphere, the lush green surroundings, the smell of incense filling the air and the sweet Balinese people. This island is just… Magic
rice fields around Ubud
4. Backpacking through Zimbabwe
As I mentioned above it was my first trip. It wasn’t so much the attractions that made this one of my favourite destinations, it was more a general feeling of well-being. Drinking a beer under the African sun with some of the world’s most impressive waterfalls in the background while making lasting friendships with locals and expats.
sunset over the Zambezi
5. Cruising through Lake Connemara and surroundings, Ireland
The Irish country in general, is incredibly beautiful. I can see why it has been an inspiration for quite some songs, literature and poetry. In fact, you could possibly say that the Irish countryside is poetry.
somewhere along the way
6. Living the island life in Zanzibar
I’ve had to wait 15 years to go to Zanzibar and when I finally did, it was even more jaw-dropping than expected. The water is of the bluest blue, the earth is red, spices are abundant and there is always a freshly caught fish grilling on some coals. You can feel the mystic that comes with the historic crossroads of cultures.
Zanzibari fishing village
7. Morocco
Every time I go to MoroccoI’m amazed at how much I love the country. Why amazed? Because it can be quite tantalising at times. The touts in the touristy cities like Marrakech, constant bargaining, scams… Yet I can’t help but adore this country and I gladly accept its flaws.
Morocco’s most iconic town Aït Benhaddou
8. Venturing out into Timor-Leste
It was such an out of the blue destination on which I couldn’t find much information online. I had no expectations whatsoever, perhaps that is why I was so pleasantly surprised. Beside the gorgeous scenery it was the big unknown and the sense of adventurethat made this place special to me. Timor-Leste offers a challenge to the seasoned traveller.
coastline in Dili
9. Hiking Dominica
Rugged and unknown- I’m starting to see a pattern here- Dominica has the ideal reggae/Caribbean island vibe. My entire stay there I felt like an old-school explorer, minus the compass. It’s the only island in the caribbean that has no white sand beaches which is why it’s often overlooked by package and cruise tourists leaving it unspoilt.
every now and again a sign reminds you that you’re not the first person to explore the island
10. The old city of Jerusalem, Israel
Israel is a generally a great tourist destination but the old city of Jerusalem… That place vibrates. You feel and see emotion wherever you look. You can breathe history, touch spirituality, smell culture, taste tradition. The old town of Jerusalem is a truly unique place.
quiet streets of the old city
11. Dancing to dirty reggeaton beats in Venezuela
Less than an hour after exiting the airport of Caracas, I told the friend I was visiting: “This is it. I belong in this country”. We laughed, but I wasn’t joking. Venezuela has it all: the beaches, the rain forests, the deserts, the mountains, the party cities. It has attitude, it has style. The only thing lacking is a decent government to help the country grow to its full potential.
Los Roques, my first encounter with the caribbean
12. Bhaktapur, Nepal
Besides the fact that practically the entire city is made of wood and full of temples, it was the general “zen-atmosphere” I might have enjoyed most in Bhaktapur. I’d wake up every morning to the sound of prayers and gentle bells followed by the smell of freshly brewed tea. Enchanting! Also, it’s where you can find the best curd in the world!
Bhaktapur in the morning light
I may be a globetrotter in the eyes of my 19 year-old self but in the eyes of the woman I am today, I still have a long way to go.
I just couldn’t resist to list some honourable mentions: Copenhagen, Cuba, the forests of Washington State, Singapore, Amsterdam, The Sinai (Egypt), Lake Bunyonyi (Uganda) and New York City.
The past 7 years I’ve been so lucky to celebrate the start of a new life year abroad, either doing something exciting or lazing in the shade of a coconut tree. Because this year was so different, I thought I’d look back on those past birthdays.
Turning…
…22! Stargazing in Liechtenstein’s Alps
As wild camping is legal in Liechtenstein, my then boyfriend and I made our way to the Alps. We pitched a tent in a beautiful meadow and spent the evening celebrating under the stars with bubbles and smoked salmon. It was my first time camping in the wild and I loved being totally isolated in nature. Though I must admit, there were moments at night where I was convinced a mad serial killer was scratching our tent… Tsss, city girls…
the Alps…bubbles and salmon“bathing” in nature
…23! Exploring Marrakech and its bazaars
A birthday in the old city of Marrakech was a perfect ending to a two week trip through South Morocco and Western Sahara. We exchanged our dusty desert clothes for urban wear and spent the evening bargaining in the souk and sampling Moroccan wines on rooftop bars.
Djema el-Fna from rooftopthe damage
…24! Solo in Egypt
Instead of flying straight home after a conference in Egypt, I prolonged my stay to see as much of the country as I possibly could. Birthdays are usually spent with friends and/or family, but that time, it was just me. I was proud to be a 24-year-old assertive and mature enough to ‘survive’ the chaos of Caïro. I was proud to be fit enough to climb Mount Sinai for the sunrise. I was proud to be brave enough to travel solo in an unknown, male-dominant country. I felt lucky to have the freedom to do what I was doing.
fighting off touts around the pyramidsloving solo travelHoly Mount Sinai
…25! On a 40 hour train ride across India
Being crammed on a stuffy Indian train might be one of my most unglamorous birthdays . A group of Indian men sitting on the bed opposite mine, staring at my every move. Rats sprinting across the wagon, passengers loudly clearing their noses by spitting everywhere, toilet floors inundated with urine… It wasn’t much of a celebration, but rather an extremely long two days to get through. After the 40 hour ride, I was treated to a huge cake and beautiful views over Udaipur.
I can stare right back…delicious personalised birthday cakeUdaipur
…26! Searching for the best “pasteis” and Port in Portugal
What a road trip; driving from city to city and around the country side, sampling on all the goodness Portugal has to offer. Learning about the Portuguese cuisine and culture was my gift to myself.
Port wine served with a selection of fine cheesespasteis for the roadBelèm
…27! Love Cake in Kathmandu
We stalled our big hike in the Himalayas to get mentally ready for the trek. So I spent this birthday in Kathmandu visualising myself on the top of a mountain. I can’t remember specific details about that day except… Except the love cake… A famous chocolate cake that has been mentioned as a must-try since the 70’s hippie trail. I wasn’t expecting much -as usual when it comes to chocolate anything outside of Western Europe- but my mind was blown. I was utterly quiet for a few minutes, couldn’t believe I just tasted what I did. Pure bliss! I must admit, my opinion might have been influenced by the fact that I had been eating nothing but flavourless “dahl bhat” and instant noodles for two weeks, but either way, to this day I still think of the Love cake as my favourite chocolate cake EVER!
KathmanduLove Cake
…28! By the pool in Myanmar
With temperatures reaching 40°C, there wasn’t much else to do than lie by the pool in Bagan. Temple visits in the mornings and evenings, cooling off in the swimming pool during the day. A lazy 28th. I was surprised with a gorgeous and elaborate cake… with zero flavour -unless ‘fat’ counts as a flavour. I ended up splitting donating the entire cake to the staff members.
the only way to deal with heatmisleading cakeenjoying a good view
…29! Cheese and wine with family
This year no palm trees, no temples and no exotic food, but something that’s at least just as good, maybe even better: stinky cheese and red wine with my family in Belgium. It might not be a dream destination, but it’s exactly where I want to be!
What about you, is celebrating your birthday at home a “must”?
What is the perfect getaway anyway? For me, it’s spending a couple of days in a new environment. Leaving the old and familiar to take in new and exciting smells, tastes, sights and sounds. It’s getting a sensory overload, bringing you a renewed ‘joie de vivre’. It’s returning home relaxed, energized and inspired. I found it all during my December getaway to Fez, Morocco. Four days in Fez was all I needed to overcome the winter gloom creeping over my mood and to get the necessary strength to tackle the cold days awaiting in Europe.
There is nothing sunshine, Moroccan cuisine, a good dose of exotic culture and quality time with a loved one can’t fix!
Here’s how I experienced the perfect getaway in Fez.
Dump the city map
There is only one way to experience the old medina of Fez and that’s by getting lost in it. Just wander and enjoy not knowing where you’re going. Every corner feels like an important discovery especially since there are hardly any tourists during the winter.
narrow streetsmarketsbeautiful gateways
Shop or window shop
Fez has some gorgeous locally produced goods. High quality leather goods, silver jewellery, nougat, lamps, precious stones, argan oil from the South… The shop keepers are ferocious and cunning, so bring up your most assertive alter ego and operate your best bargaining skills.
buying nougatbeautiful lampsselfie while drooling over lamps
Spend the night in a riad
The traditional Moroccan house (riad) really transports you to another world with its exotic grandeur. Riads are characterized by their (usually well decorated) inner garden/courtyard. When used as guest houses, you can be sure they are furnished in the most refined possible way, using local handicrafts. It’s the place to be for a relaxing “1001 nights” experience. Although many riads are luxurious and expensive, plenty of them offer budget/mid-range options.
budget riad roombreakfast in the December sunshine
If you can’t afford to stay in a riad…
Have drinks in a fancy Riad
If you can’t afford to spend the night, splurge for a drink! Dress up, get a drink and make the night count. Not something you do in everyday life.
fancy riadinner court with poolmartini at the fancy riadexpensive but worth it
Taste “Pastilla”
Pronounced Bastila, the sweet and savoury meat pie has Andalusian-Arab origins. Slow cooked pigeon meat- although chicken is more commonly used nowadays- seasoned with a wide array of spices among which cinnamon, cardamon and black pepper. The meat mixture is wrapped in a blanket of phyllo dough, baked and finally topped with crushed almonds and icing sugar. Very unusual, one to try!
pastilla
Marvel at the golden gates of the Royal Palace
Or at least at its doors. The palace is not open for public, so you’re likely to be standing in front of closed gates. I found them beautiful, others found it a lame sight as you can not see the inside of the palace. I say, leave that to your imagination and check out the golden gates. They’re at least worth a photo stop, if you ask me.
royal palaceknocking at the golden gates
Visit a tannery
It’s fascinating to find out about the origin of your beautiful leather bag/shoes/insert almost anything. Visit the tannery, ask a few questions and learn all about the leather making process. It’s easy to get there: follow the arrows and follow your nose. As soon as you start smelling leather and piss, you’ll know you’ve reached your destination. Small tips for the guard or the worker explaining his craft are well appreciated, not to say expected.
meat rotting off the skindrying skinstannery in the medinahard labor at the tannery
Learn to cook a tajine dish
Tajine dishes can be quite simple to make and easy to learn. All you need are fresh ingredients and the right spices. A secret recipe helps too. I got mine from a Moroccan CouchSurfer at a house party somewhere in the heart of the Medina. Alternatively, there are plenty of official cooking courses to attend in Fez. Recreating the dish once you’re back home, takes you back to your getaway within seconds.
learning to cook a simple tajine dishto be enjoyed with friends
Get out of town
Walking around in Fez can take up a lot of your energy. Exchange the bustle of the city for a more peaceful setting in the partly excavated Roman city of Volubilis. Just 70 km away from Fez, you can find yourself in the middle of a stunning UNESCO sight, full of ancient ruins. Either take a taxi (1 hour) or catch the train heading to Meknès. It’s worth the trouble even for people who have a tendency to fall a sleep at archaeological sights!
out of townVolubilis
Would you consider Fez as a (weekend) getaway? Where was your last getaway?
